I can read!

While it may not seem like a very big accomplishment to most Enlgish teachers working in Korea, but the fact that I can now read Hangul is a huge improvement upon my condition here; even though its only at turtle speed for the time being, it helps a lot.

I first started taking a Korean language class three weeks ago, and now I'm able to read most sentences given enough time; I don't know what they all mean, but I can read them, which seems to impress most of my Korean co-workers.

It has exceptionally helped with my class work, as now I am able to read children's actual names, instead of refering to them solely by their English names. There is also the novelty of writing my own name: 저스틴.

Although most public school teachers don't have to, some hagwon (private school) teachers are responsible for and required to correct their students' tests and submit monthly report sheets; I'm one of the unlucky ones I guess.

Its something which is a very arduous task, but with the capability of actually reading my students' writing (some are just completely illegible due to poor handwriting), I am no longer as dependent on my co-workers to correct them for me.

Its funny how many English words you'll find "Koreanized" everywhere you look. Just this morning I was reading the label of my instant coffee packet: 커 피 (pronounced kaw-pi, which sounds a lot like coffee) and 오리지날 (oh-lee-jee-nahl, which is "original"). There is no "r" equivalent in korean, so it comes out sounding like an "l", something which takes a bit of getting used to.

The writing seems to be said backwards as well, like Japanese, where you would say coffee original, instead of original coffee; the same goes for a line of questioning. Instead of saying, "who are you?" They would say, "you are who?"

I'm learning slowly, step by step, but hopefully after another few weeks of classes I'll be able to order something off a menu without having to look for a picture.

This heart's on fire

One of the biggest festivals, possibly the biggest, on Jeju is the Fire Festival, celebrated annually in February. By this time, almost everyone who has blog on Jeju has already mentioned something about it, posted pictures, or uploaded videos. So I'm going to do my part by adding my two cents to the overpublished pile of information on this subject.

I spent my time at the festival like many others, taking pictures and video with both cameras. Hopefully I'll be able to put together another video for Jeju Life with the footage I've captured.

The festival takes place over a few days, but by far the best day is the last, when they finally set the oreum on fire at dusk. Coincidentally, the festival landed on the same day as Valentine's day this year; what better way to celebrate a day of love with your friends, or family, then by setting a hill on fire. Its easy to see why its such a popular event: drinking + fireworks + mountain set on fire = awesome.

Another important issue worth mentioning is that only a week before the festival, somewhere on mainland Korea, another similar event was held, however, the festival didn't end well. The winds were so strong that the fire got out of control and killed eight people and injured dozens more.

This of course brought a lot of attention to Jeju's festival, and there were even rumors of the fire being cancelled. When Saturday, the last day of the festival, finally rolled around, weather conditions were fortunately looking more optimistic.

At around 2:30 in the afternoon, Brian, Mike, and myself, grabbed a bus headed for the festival. I was quite surprised at the turnout when we arrived. Make-shift parking lots were packed with cars, trucks, and tour buses; traffic was even more clustered.

Buses going to and from Jeju-si and Seogwipo-si were stopping at designated areas. More and more people arrived every minute. We managed to cross the road, with the help of some traffic officers, and walked through the gates heading down the road towards the oreum.



There are dozens of tents and trucks setup with every random thing you would expect to be at a Korean festival; some were even selling winter coats.



As we got closer to the center of the tent city that surrounded the oreum, we came upon some interestingly dressed Koreans. One wore some battle armor; another I’m guessing was wearing some Mongolian armor, and the last wore some traditional Korean garb. Near them were statues made up entirely of oranges. My favourite was the Dol-hareubang one.

Both Brian and I were on the lookout for good photograph opportunities, and the most obvious was the oreum in front of us. Passing by a staged area, like many others before us, we started the steep hike up the side of the hill.



We passed by a table with some people handing out tea, so Mike and I grabbed some; the tea would prove to be a wise decision as we climbed further. There was also a slide setup on the side of this oreum, where kids used sleds to slide down a ramp and onto the grassy hill. Mike and I were amused at the idea, but never got the chance to try for ourselves.

On the way up the hill there was a man sleeping, apparently someone later called the paramedics, thinking that he was injured. The view got more impressive with every step closer to the top. We took a momentary break to regain our breath, and then climbed the last few steps to finally reach the crest.



As with most oreum around the island, the view was just spectacular. I counted almost thirty some other oreum on the horizon. Everyone was just enjoying the sights and a stroll along the hilltop.



We were getting a bit hungry and thirsty, so resumed our walking and started our descent down the other side of the oreum, back towards the city of tents. There were these ridiculous sized kites flying around, and as we walked back towards the tents we came close enough to get some pictures.

The kites were all shapes and sizes: from the hand-made classic diamond shape, to the more intricate forty foot long cobra shaped kite. One guy was doing all sort of loops and extreme flying with his kite; I was jealous.



Near the base of the oreum are numerous flags with poles made of bamboo, traditional flags for a traditional festival.



We met up with some of our other friends on our way through the crowd, and we all decided some makgeollis was the best idea. We stopped not too far up the road; the first tent we found with seating. It was a much appreciated shelter from the wind, and had the supplies we needed.



What started as a table of 3 or 4 and eventually became a crowd of 9 or 10. The owner was not pleased with our annexation of his tent, but we were buying food and drinks, so I don’t understand why he was so upset. Xenophobia perhaps.



An hour or two passed and the sun began to set. I motioned to Brian and we both gathered our gear, and started our search for the perfect shooting location. The most obvious choice was this high point near some of the tents in the back; however, when we arrived, it was full of other photographers and their tripods.

At one point Brian even attempted to climb this metal hut, only to have some Koreans yelling at him. The roof didn’t seem that sturdy, so we decided to move towards some new territory.

We spotted a great vantage point behind the tent city. It was a bit of a walk, and unprotected from the wind, but it made for a more unique shooting location than what the hundred-some other photographers were using.



With our territory staked out, we set up our tripods and made sure we had ample drinking supplies for the show. Everyone around was doing the same thing; getting ready for the countdown.



As the final bit of sunlight disappeared behind the horizon, the spot lights came on and the crowd was ready for the show. And so it began…



The sky burst into light as the fireworks positioned all over the oreum lit up; I was impressed by how well it was organized.

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One after another, the fireworks continued to explode over our heads:



When the fireworks eventually slowed down, a crowd of people with torches began lining up along the base of the oreum. They selected people randomly, and even a few foreigners joined in on the fun. Now it was time for the big show to being: the fire.



It resembled some sort of missile or bomb attack going off, and afterwards everything erupted into flames.



By this time we had gotten all the footage we needed of the fireworks, so we thought it best to move in closer for some shots of the sweeping blaze. Mike and I scaled down a nearby wall and ran across this field towards the fire. As we did, we were approached by a Korean who was shouting to us, “Fire, Dangerous!”

Mike and I laughed a bit, since we were no where close to the fires yet, but apparently he was referring to the fireworks that were about to go off just next to us. As we moved in closer we realized what the man was talking about. We were probably standing too close, but the display was outstanding.



Standing there in front of the fire felt great; the warmth on our skin, the light in our eyes, it was an experience not to be missed.



We discovered that we were actually standing on the opposite side of the police line, but no one seemed to mind; it was great. We walked along the base of oreum getting some pictures, and when we finished we crossed back over.

Rejoining our comrades, we moved quickly towards the exit; hoping that we made it to the buses before the traffic mayhem was unleashed upon us. It took us a few minutes to catch a bus going to the city, but it would have been much worse trying to get a car out of that mess.



Once we had all boarded our transport, we were off to the bigger city to continue our celebrations.

Road trip to Abu-oreum

Last week I started taking Korean language classes. Along with my regular teaching schedule and other activities, it was quite a busy week for me, but in the midst of all the teaching, classes, and other stuff, I managed to make time for a road trip to Abu-oreum Wednesday morning.

A new friend I just recently met, Jeff, was heading back to the States for a break between contracts, but before he left, he proposed the idea of a road trip somewhere around the island. He had access to a car for his last few days here, so we came up with the idea to take a trip out to the East coast of the island. Both Brian and I had some time in the morning, so we arranged to all meet Wednesday for a trip east.

Along with us three gentlemen, was another friend, Maria. It was the first time I met her, but I discovered that she works for the same chain english school that I do, so already we had something to talk about. It was an early morning for most of us so we tried to get ourselves into the mood with some music, however, the radio stations weren't very compelling.

Traveling along route 1132 going east, we made our turn towards the famous oreum near Pyoseon, onto the 97. Only a few moments after the junction, we spotted a massive cemetery alongside an oreum. There was construction all along the road and we couldn't find a turn-off, so it was going to have to wait 'til next time to find out what exactly it was.

Also along route 97 on the way to Abu-oreum is the Seongeup Folklore village; its one of the few remaining traditional villages on Jeju. All of the buildings are made from rocks, clay, wood, and thatched roofs of straw. The government pays those living there a stipend as to incline them to stay, and keep the traditional setting alive.



Its also a relatively busy tourist spot, for those looking to glimpse into the past of Korean life. Walking along the streets, we spotted a pony; it seemed friendly enough, so Jeff approached it with ease.



Most of the houses are quite modern on the inside, with electricity, plumbing, etc. Continuing down the main street we came to a detour, there was some excavation going on around an old Confucian school.



We ran into some tourists from Seoul, whom seemed to speak a bit of English. Brian and I were looking for a way around the excavation to get some pictures closer to the school, but were thwarted by two nearby nasty looking dogs.

Instead we went in the other direction, heading down some side streets deeper into the village. A great deal of the houses in the village are abandoned, left there as relics. Some of them still have some electrical wiring, but most are falling apart and empty.



Walking past some abandoned houses, we saw many of these white dogs; they seem to be a popular breed in Korea, and you can find them just about everywhere. Even my pension is guarded by one.

We also saw some of Jeju's black pigs, one of which was quite rambunctious. Almost everyone had their own garden, and there was a lot of new construction going on. Apparently many of the roofs were being fixed up with new straw in preparation for the rainy season; no one likes a leaky roof.

Since we only had a few hours, we thought it best to carry on with our road trip. As we were on our way out, we took a minute to climb up onto the outer wall to get a better view of the whole village.



Also on our way out we spotted some really interesting looking Dol-hareubang statues. Apparently they're part of the forty-five original statues from the island; they looked incredibly old and quite different from the other mass-produced ones.



The next part of our journey was a bit difficult, but we managed to figure the best route to get to the oreum. If you drive into the village of Songdang, you'll spot the green sign with "Abuoreum" marked upon it. Just follow down the road and you'll come to it; the only problem is there isn't a parking area or anything, you just stop on the side of the road where there is this marker:



The oreum isn't that long of a climb, but you do have to cross under some barbed fence to get to the top. Apparently it borders someone's land, and they have a few horses which I guess they don't want getting away. It was rather easy for Maria and Jeff, as they are much shorter than Brian or I.

Once you climb to the top, there is a fantastic view of the surrounding area; you can spot dozens of other oreum, and possibly Mt. Halla, if it isn't too foggy.



Abu-oreum is known for its crater in the center, which is filled with trees. Supposedly the trees were meant to have a heart shape, but it looks more like a circle to me. If it were a bit less windy, it would have been the perfect day to descend into the center and have a picnic; next time perhaps.



The oreum was a location setting for the 1999 film, Lee Jae-Sueui nan. Its a nice spot to visit, and apparently is even more beautiful when covered with snow; the trouble is getting there and climbing it in those conditions.


With about two hours to go before I had to get back to Seogwipo, we decided to take a drive down to the coast and the Honinji caves.

It took a bit of navigation, but we eventually reached the spot to find it completely abandoned. It looks like a newer facility, but everything was locked up, except the bathrooms, which were quite marvelous might I add.

After wandering around the area for a while, we were about to give up and go home, when Brian finally found the caves. The entrance is just some stairs leading down into these very narrow caves. Using the light on my camera, I went deeper into the caves to find that it opened up once you went further in. Its about the size of a large living room, and there are two adjacent caves.



Supposedly the caves are named the three gods' caves, after these gods that got married at the location. Supposedly this was where their honeymoon was, and apparently they bathed in a nearby pond, burying some treasure near it.

I doubt anyone has found the treasure, or if it even exists, but the caves are quite interesting to see, and could have at one point even been inhabited by someone or something. Its worth a stop if you're traveling along route 1132 on the Eastern coast.



Photo provided by Brian Miller

A day in the West

Saturday, February 7th, I awake with a sudden rush. I look for my phone, the time reads 9:05 am, damn, I slept through my alarm. I'm already five minutes late. I call Brian to inform him of my situation, and immediately throw on some clothes. I grab my cameras, and I run out my door and down the street.

After running a few blocks I slow down to catch my breath. I cross the street to E-mart to see Jim, Virginia, and Brian grinning back at me. Also with them is our driver for the day, Mr. Monkey: the Best Driver in Seogwipo, it even says so on his taxi car, and believe me, its not something easily earned.

He had to go 10 years without any accidents to be awarded the title. Besides his driving skills, he's one of the few taxi drivers that speak some English on the island, and he learns it by himself; with a charismatic personality to match, he most certainly is the Best Driver.

Loading our equipment into his trunk, we all jump into his cab and start our adventure with Mr. Monkey. The first stop on our journey was a nearby buddhist temple, Beophwasa Temple, built on the ruins of an older Mongolian temple. The temple itself isn't very big or impressive, but the temple grounds and surrounding area is worth the trip, especially in the spring/summer, when everything is in bloom.



Walking closer to the temple, we see that there is a ceremony in cession, and so we quietly make our way around to where the remains of the Mongolian temple are. It looks like a bunch of old rocks and thats exactly what it is. Trying to be respectful, we avoid going into the temple, and instead head towards a nearby pond opposite of the temple.



It doesn't look like much now, but I imagine what it will look like in a few months: alluring and peaceful, the perfect spot for meditation and contemplation.

With all the items on our agenda, we don't have time to sit around, so we get back in the car and drive West.

Driving along the coast feels great: wind in my hair and sun on my face. Rising from the horizon is the great oreum Sanbangsan. It looks odd, this incredibly high mountain just sticking out of the ground; as if the top of a mountain was cut and thrown there. As we drive past, Brian spots a photographic opportunity. Mr. Monkey pulls a u-turn.

We step out in front of a field of flowers. With the wind blowing strongly, we all quickly reach for our cameras, and start shooting. As we do, an old man comes walking towards us from an adjacent field. We get very suspicious; was he just walking down the road and spotted us?

Soon our suspicions are resolved. After a brief conversation with our guide/driver, Mr. Monkey, we learn that this field belongs to the old man. He insists we pay him 2,000 won to take pictures of it. We laugh, Brian pays, and we get back on the road.



Not far down the road is our next stop, Daejeong Hyanggyo, a confucian school. No longer in use, this school is one of the few reminders here on Jeju of Chinese influence. Its not a very big school, but its well kept, and it is interesting just to see such a place here.

I walk through the small gate entrance, stepping into the courtyard. Surrounding me are three structures, to my left, stairs leading up to the main hall. I examine the architecture and then climb the stairs, through another arch, to where the rest of my group has gone.



Brian scales a nearby wall, attempting to get into position for a better shot. Jim tries the door; its locked. Virginia climbs up onto the wall; I follow in suit, immediately getting a better view of the surrounding area. The oreum make for a perfect backdrop to the courtyard.



Looking back towards the main hall, I take a shot of its closed entrance and its design.



Climbing down from the wall, we decide its time again to get back on the road. A short ride and we arrive at the Chusa exile site. Unfortunately there was a lot of construction going on, so it wasn't particularly interesting. Climbing over a wall, I get my first look at some traditional looking Korean houses.

The walls are made of mud and clay, the roofs of straw. There is this enclosed pit area, where the pigs were kept; its also where the bathroom was. Its one of those practices that I hope doesn't still continue today.

Next up: The Spirited Garden, one of the biggest outdoor bonsai tree gardens. Flashing our alien registration cards, the attendant gives us our discount and we pay the 7,000 won admittance fee. The owner and head gardener, I believe, greets us at the entrance. We walk into the park and split up, going off in every direction.



There are bonsai trees everywhere: all different shapes, sizes, and types. I follow the brick path, passing by dozens of groomed trees. I arrive at a waterfall, and stop to take a few clips.



Below the waterfall is a pond, filled with these brightly coloured fish. There is a bridge that crosses the pond, which is purely aesthetic. I turn around to watch the fish for a few moments.



I continue walking along the path and spot Brian nearby taking some pictures. I approach him to see what his subject is this time.



Some of the trees have fruit on them, although none of it is actually grown from the trees. Its made to look natural however, but it does serve some artistic purpose I suppose.



Walking further down the path again I see Jim and Virginia emerging from a greenhouse. Curiously, I walk into the greenhouse and am surprised by even more trees. The garden is pretty impressive and has too many trees to count. I can imagine that its even more extravagant in the summer, at the peak of the season.



Its been a few hours, and my stomach is empty. I look to Brian and he's thinking the same thing. I walk back towards the entrance, where there is a centre. I spot Jim already inside, he beat us to it.

Inside I'm greeted by the seductive aroma of a buffet. We quickly discuss it and its unanimous; we pay and then grab some plates. Rice, curry, bulgogi, fish, chopche (glass noodles), kimchi, soup, pumpkin, and plenty of other choices await us.



I finish my first plate and head back for another. It was a good meal, and the timing couldn't have been better. All I needed now was a cup of coffee.

My wish would be granted just minutes later, at a stop down the road, the Mayflower cafe.



Its an interesting little cafe, with bits of wood, rocks, and plaster mixed together, giving it this almost driftwood cabin feel. What's even more interesting about it is that everything is free. The owner who lives next door, and is often away on trips to Seoul, has the cafe setup for anyone looking for a nice stop and some refreshments. You just pay what you think is fair, putting it into the donation box at the entrance.

There are several coffee makers, plenty of tea, a fridge stocked with juice and beers, and even a laptop on this stage with plenty of sound equipment. My first thought was, if no one is here, wouldn't someone take advantage of the owner's generosity and steal some of his equipment?

I suppose it is a risk, but living on Jeju, and not being that well known of a place, its just one of those perfect little gems that make up that diamond mine that is Jeju.

Brian and I had some coffee, while Jim and Virginia shared a pot of tea. Not long after we arrived, more people started showing up, and within minutes the place was busy with people inside and out, enjoying the patio and sunny weather. We all grabbed some beers for the road and put some won in the donation box.



As we got back into the cab, we switched up seating arrangements. I ended up in the front with Mr. Monkey. Our next stop was to the Jeoji Culture and Art Village, a spot known for its artistic values and creations. Its not a very popular spot, as the villagers there like to keep to themselves. Maybe they need the solitude for their creative thinking, or maybe they just don't like tourists, either way, we were heading there next.

Driving into the village, we spotted a few different museums: one of which was another tree garden; we had our fill of trees for the day, so we continued driving. We made our way to the Jeju Museum of Modern Art. Its a decent museum, its just too bad that its so far from anything else. Walking up the rock path towards the entrance we heard some music. It was then that we realized that some of the rocks had built in speakers...interesting.

Jim did the translating for us and approached the museum attendant about admission, meanwhile Brian flipped through a photo book, wherein he found a picture of Jim and himself; they were celebrities here. It was a mere 2,000 won for all of us, a respectful price to see the gallery.



The artist, Kim Ok Sun, is a Jeju resident who won a $50,000 grant for his works. With that money he invested some into the building of the museum. Only a year ago he was putting together a portrait book of foreigners living on the island; Brian and Jim were asked to be a part of it.

I wouldn't consider myself an art scholar, but I do have some artistic values, and the artist most definitely had talent.



Once we had gone through the gallery, we rejoined our driver, and went back on the road. While we were discussing which to go next, Suwolbang or Songaksan, Mr. Monkey suggested that we go the nearby oreum, Jeoji Oreum. None of us had heard anything about it before, but our driver insisted that it was a great place to check out, so we did.



The trail starts off with a steep climb, but then converges into a trail that loops around the oreum. Mr. Monkey gave us some directions and we were off. Walking through the trees, we spotted something up ahead: a massive cemetery. Jeju graves resemble mini-oreums, and can be found just about anywhere. Even in crops fields, where the crops come right up to the edge of the graves.

What we saw was a rolling hill filled with these graves; it was stunning.



As we kept walking we noticed a Korean up ahead, at first we thought that he might be upset with us taking photos, but we realized that it was Mr. Monkey. He had gone the other way around the oreum to meet up with us, and now had emerged what seemed to be ahead of us, with a walking stick nonetheless; weird.

He pointed out the trail to the top, where supposedly there was a crater. We started climbing again, only to arrive at a fork in the road. We went left and emerged at the top. The crater must have been the other direction. There was a man passed out in a small booth with Korean music blaring, we just passed him by and stood atop this platform for a view around the Western side of the island.



With evening approaching, we grabbed our things and headed back down the oreum, this time going the other way back to meet with our driver. Again we spotted some graves, but this time there were some black ones. Perhaps some newer graves that had yet grown any grass on them?



Driving into the village of Suwolbong, we were greeted by the sight of many drying squid. Squid in Korean is like candy; everyone eats it, except me. You'll find a lot of children snacking away on dried squid in class, like beef jerky. Maybe its the salt taste that they like, I don't understand it.



The view of Chagwido island from Suwolbong harbour is simply amazing. Despite it being incredibly windy out, we went down along the water to take some photos of the scenery. Jim spent most his time trying to avoid seagull poop; as did I.



Virginia, whom Mr. Monkey referred to as "Gloria" for the remainder of the day, was quite cold from the wind, and so went back towards the car rather quickly. We drove along the coastal road, until we came to a road that led up to this lookout point along the cliffs.

It was a great spot to lookout onto the harbour and the fields surrounding the village.



With our time with Mr. Monkey just about up, we left for our final destination of the day, Songaksan, for a view of Sanbangsan, Gapado and Marado.

The drive along the coast through the fields and villages was fantastic. It was like seeing another side of Jeju, void of any tourists, comfortable, with houses right on the water. It was like revisiting home for me; it felt great. I imagine myself biking along the route, enjoying the sun on a perfect summer day.

Unfortunately the wind was getting stronger, and the day colder, so we quickly walked to the lookout point at Songaksan. There was plenty of others around, taking in the view, and enjoying some drinks at a nearby tented restaurant.

We took in one last view of the area and then got back in our ride, headed for home. That was my day in the West.

Sightseeing in Seogwipo

Despite being here for three months, I have yet to visit many of the local tourist stops in the Seogwipo region; last weekend I got the opportunity. Brian, Mike, and myself, were showing around a newcomer to the island, Virginia. She has only been here a few weeks and I know exactly how she is feeling. Its funny, I never thought I would be the one showing someone else around.

Now that the tables have turned, I'm going to extend the same gratitude that others have shown me upon first arriving here. Since it was a nice day out, our first inclination was to head somewhere befitting the weather. We all got into a cab and headed down past the harbour, to the famous lookout spot, Oedolgae.



Its a popular spot for locals, and even more so since it was used as a location set for a popular Korean drama. There is even this life size cut-out of the actress that starred in the drama, that you can pose with for pictures. There is a photographer who will even take your picture with your loved one(s), but we opted to avoid the stereotypical group pose in front of the rock.

Walking around the path, we moved closer onto the cliff that overlooks the great rock. Its the perfect spot for a picnic, too bad we only had our cameras.



We took a moment to take in the open sea, and the islands before us; it was a beautiful sight, but very windy.



After spending a few minutes taking photos, we decided to go around to the other side, where we spotted some fishermen down by the rocks on the shore. As we were walking in that direction however, we stopped for some drinks and a snack: homemade makgeolli and pajong, a korean pancake containing squid, flour, and greens.

We quickly downed the makgeolli and pancake and continued about our walk. As we approached the other side of the rock, we found this lady yelling out at the sea. Virginia first thought that she was yelling out to her fisherman husband, but I knew better. Koreans, for some reason, often yell out into open spaces when in nature. I've seen it before, out on Mt. Halla. Perhaps its part of some sort of meditation process, or maybe its just a tradition that Koreans do.



Looking out over the cliff, we could see quite a few people down by the water fishing. All of them seem to be content with themselves, so after some deliberation, we decided that we would make our way back to the harbour, and take a boat tour.

The only problem with coming out to Oedolgae is that there are no cabs going back into the city, however, there are buses that leave every now and then. We decided to get some exercise and walk it to the harbour. Twenty minutes later, and we arrived.

We paid our 10,000 won admission for our boat tickets and grabbed some refreshments. The tickets read: "Upon Return, please do as favor to the crew," what that means, I'll never know.

Brian spotted some people heading towards the boat, so we followed in suit, and made our way to the loading dock. Around the harbour there is a lot of construction going on, as they are building a bridge to a nearby island. The bridge has a popular sailboat design to it, and once finished should be quite impressive.



Only a few minutes later, and the boat was underway. All the seats topside were taken, so we just settled for some shelter from the flock of seagulls hovering above. This flock followed us all the way out along the tour; it didn't help that everyone was trying to get them to catch chips and snacks they were throwing off the side.



The boat tour is basically a loop around the harbour, sailing by Jeongbang waterfall, Oedolgae, and a few of the nearby islands. It was a pretty windy day, but the fresh air did me good.



We spotted the submarine tour as we came closer to one of the islands. Strangely, it was being pulled by a tugboat, I'm not sure if that's standard procedure, but it seemed to be getting the job done. The islands are all very high, carved by the ocean and formed by volcanic rock, millions of years old.



As we made our way around this island, we spotted some more fishermen on the rocks, as well as some scuba divers. It definitely got me in the mood for going scuba diving, something that I hope to take up during my stay here on the island. At first I thought they were Haenyo, but Brian, with his ridiculous sized lens, informed me that they were only scuba divers. They were probably exploring the nearby caves; awesome.



On our way back into port, they played extremely loud noraebang music, which are these private karaoke rooms, over the intercom; it was incredibly loud and annoying, and I wasn't the only one to think so. By the time we docked again, we were thanking ourselves that the music had come to an end.

Another benefit of being down near the harbour is that we were really close to Cheonjiyeon waterfall. I've never been before, and neither has Virginia, so we added that to our agenda. Both Brian and Mike suggested that we go there around dusk, when they light up the waterfall. We had an hour or so to kill, so we went to Teepee, a nearby cabin/bar of sorts, for some more makgeolli and snacks.

Once it got dark, we got our things together and walked five minutes down the road to the waterfall. The admission is free to locals, and anyone with an alien registration card. That's another thing I've noticed, that a lot of places will give you a substantial discount if you show your alien registration card, which works out great if you like to explore the island.

Its not a very long walk before you reach the falls themselves, maybe another five minutes. The moon was shining brightly, as was a planet I think, and the waterfall looked quite impressive with the lighting.



As it got darker out, we were all pretty hungry, so Brian proposed this Dokdo restaurant. For those of you who don't know, Dokdo is this small rock/island that both Japan and Korea have been making territorial claims over. From what I hear, it is a part of Korea now and the Japanese don't really think much of it anymore, the Koreans however, love to bring up the debate.

Though it is a Dokdo restaurant, littered with posters and pictures of the island, I believe the seafood there actually comes from someplace else. We were served some fresh cuts of tuna along with wasabi and all the sides dishes. It was a good meal, but a bit expensive, around 30,000 won each. We only had three orders, since neither Virginia nor I wanted to eat that much, so it worked out it alright.

The rest of the night we showed Virginia around to all the popular spots in downtown Seogwipo, stopping for drinks along the way. It felt good to finally sit and relax after all we had done during the day, but I'm glad we got to do and see so much. I feel like I know the area better, and that next time around, I won't be such the tourist.

Seollal

Here in Korea, New Year's day is celebrated twice a year: once on January 1st, and again on the lunar calendar New Year's day, which was January 26th this year. Also known as Lunar New Years, its celebrated not only by Koreans, but by the Chinese, Malaysians, Philippines, Indonesians, and many other Asian countries and cultures. It is the first day of the Korean lunar calendar and is probably one of the most important and celebrated holidays here in Korea and on Jeju. This year, being the year of the Ox (my zodiac sign), looks to be very promising.

As I left class on Friday, before the long holiday weekend, my boss gave me a Seollal gift: A box with canned peaches, and a box of denmark ham. Its common for people to exchange gifts of fruits and canned goods on the holiday, or even a nice set match of drinking glasses with some traditional drink. I didn't have anything for him, but since I did give him a gift for Christmas, I figure we're about even.

This was the weekend immediately following my food poisoning, so I didn't have very much planned. Friday night it felt like I was going through an exorcism, but by the next day I felt a lot better. I decided to take it rather easy over the weekend, but by the time monday came, I was feeling energetic enough to go out with some friends.

By Tuesday, I was feeling like my old self, and was up for some more adventure. The weather outside was outstanding, 14 degrees and sunny. So my friends and I decided to take advantage of this good fortune and do some exploring about the island. Our first trip was to go check out this hot-air balloon near the World Cup stadium.



The balloon is anchored to the ground, so it doesn't move other than up and down. After paying our admission fee, we decided to head over to a nearby coffee haven, OZB. Its probably one of the best spots for coffee on the island, and it comes highly recommended.



The guy that runs the store imports delicious and authentic coffee from all over the world, taking the time to choose the perfect beans for the perfect cup. Unfortunately we only had a few minutes before our balloon was supposed to take off, so we were in a bit of a rush; somehow, our urgency didn't seem to waver him at all.



The coffee was delicious, however, when we got back to the hot-air balloon we had discovered that they had stopped for the time being because of the wind. They kindly refunded our ticket, and we decided to continue our journey. Our next stop was this small cafe, bordering this river in the resort area of the island, Jungmun.

We found that it had a great view of Halla mountain, so we stopped to take a few photos out on the balcony. There was this really elaborately designed bridge just off in the distance, making for a great picture.



The cafe itself was really nice, and I would have loved to spend more time there, but we only had so much time on our hands and thought we would put it to better use by exploring the park near the bridge. After grabbing a quick cup of tea, we were off again, moving up the hill towards this bridge and viewing area.



We stopped to smell the roses along the way and take another few pictures.



There was this interesting fountain near the bridge. It had a bunch of different heads: one was a dog, another a snake, a turtle, and a lion I think. Supposedly if you can throw a coin into the pouch thats shooting out water, it'll bring you good fortune. Each head I've been told represents something different, like longevity, etc.



After getting a few more photos, our next stop was the Ma Park: a Mongolian horse theme park. Its a pretty remote area on the West end of the island, so we drove out there in a cab, however, the park itself was quite busy. It was such a nice day and a holiday, so I guess we weren't the only ones that thought it was a good idea.

The show takes place in this newly constructed arena, which was made specifically for these Mongolian performers. The show chronicles the life of Genghis Kahn, probably the most famous Mongolian of all. There are two shows a day, and also an amazing (and cheap!) buffet available. We got there just before the show was about to start, so we didn't get the chance to indulge ourselves.



The show starts out with the Mongolian crew doing a few stunts for the crowd: backflips, running alongside their horse, and other interesting maneuvers. After they make a few rounds, everyone exits the stage area. Then these kids riding ponies come out, portraying Genghis Kahn's childhood with his best friend.



The next bit seems to be a celebration of Genghis Kahn, perhaps his birthday or something. There is this dance routine followed by a few rounds of stunts again. There is also this part where they setup these targets and they go running at them full speed with swords and spears, trying to hit them.



When the celebration finally ends, everyone leaves the stage area again for another chapter in the story. The narrator gives a synopsis to the crowd and a group of female riders enters from the right. Suddenly, a group of bandits emerge chasing after them. The riders of course are skilled archers and make quick work of the bandits.



After this chapter, Genghis Kahn and his best friend both ride out together, apparently their friendship isn't as strong as it used to be. Kahn is declared by a shaman to one day be future king over the lands, and the greatest warrior ever. His friend doesn't take too kindly to this claim, and decides to raise his own army against Kahn.



In this next sequence, Kahn and his friend ride out with their armies to confront each other for supreme control over the land. Following behind Kahn is his spirit flag, represented by a man dressed completely in black on horseback.



Both Kahn and his friend talk a bit, and then send out one warrior at a time to confront each other. A kind of duel between great warriors before the all out battle breaks loose. An interesting tactic to say the least.



Finally, after the warriors face off against each other, the armies are unleashed and the real battle begins. This next video is just awesome, although I almost get hit in the head with this guy's spear when he comes blazing by the rail where I'm standing.



When all the fighting ends, Genghis Kahn comes bursting out of this tent on horseback looking like Gandalf the White. Soon after, all the rest of the cast join in and they ride around the stadium for an applause.



In all, the whole show is only about 45 minutes, but definitely worth the 10,000 won admission fee. We gathered our things and made our way out of the arena. The cast was out front, posing for pictures. So Mike and I thought we would take one with our hero, Genghis Kahn. He gave us a high-five; awesome.



Since we didn't partake in the buffet, and it was now over, we were all quite hungry. So we got back in a cab and headed off to our favourite foreigner friendly spot, Gecko's.

We all ordered steak, but apparently they undercook everything in Korea; my medium-rare was borderline rare. It was still delicious, but something to remember for next time.

It was getting close to sunset, both Brian and I thought that some sunset photos would be the perfect way to end the day, so we got back in a cab and went down the road a few minutes. We were dropped off near this bridge, which was also next to this hill with a Halla lookout at the top.

After climbing for a few minutes, and almost giving myself a cramp from the food we just ate, we arrived at the perfect lookout for sunset.



As the sun set on the first day of the new year, I took a few moments to reflect and think about how far I've come already. It was such a great day, and a good way to start the new year. I only hope the rest of the year is as fulfilling.



Photos by Brian Miller

The End of an Era

As another month rolls by here on Jeju, I feel as though the winds have begun to change. Nothing lasts forever, and my time here is quickly passing me by. I've met a lot of new friends, but as English teachers, we're never quite sure where our teaching will take us next. As some of us get closer to our contracts' conclusion, we must once again shift our focus to the future, and the road before us.

One evening, almost two years ago, two friends were discussing an idea they each shared. One was an aspiring photographer, the other an enthusiastic journalist, together they created Jeju Life: a magazine covering all the wonderful aspects that this island has to offer. It was something that not only those on the island could enjoy, but all foreigners in Korea as well as those living abroad.

Sadly, the Editor-In-Chief, Jim Saunders, is stepping down from his position with the magazine. Jim has worked diligently these last years putting together the magazine and has done an excellent job with it. Now that his time here in Korea is coming to an end, its time for him to think of his own future and career. Brian Miller, whom would have been taking his position, is now focusing his attention on putting together a photographic book about his time here on Jeju.

As for all of the other contributors to the magazine, I'm sure they will miss it, but its something that everyone eventually has to deal with; As one chapter ends, another begins.

So as the final articles for Jeju Life are being published, take the time to look over them and admire what the staff has managed to accomplish. My first video, and maybe my last for the magazine, will also soon be available through the website. You can also find it under my Videos section here on my blog.