The floats in the Yoiyama Parade are divided into two groups, Hoko and Yama, and are collectively called Yamaboko (or Yamahoko). There are 9 of the larger Hoko (long pole or halberd) which represent the 66 spears used in the original purification ritual, and 23 of the smaller Yama which carry life-size figures of famous and important people.
All the floats are decorated with beautiful tapestries both from Nishijin (the finest in all of Japan) and imported from all over the world. In addition to the art, there are many traditional musicians and artists sitting in the floats.
Each year the families that maintain the floats draw lots at a special meeting to determine what order they will take in the festival. These lots are issued at a special ceremony before the parade, during which the Mayor of Kyoto dons the robes of a magister.
On the Naginata Hoko is the chigo, a young boy in Shinto robes and crowned by a golden phoenix, chosen from among the Kyoto merchant families as the deity's sacred page. After weeks of special purification ceremonies, during which he lives isolated from contaminating influences such as the presence of women, he is carried atop the float as he is not permitted to touch the ground. The boy must cut a sacred rope (shimenawa) with a single stroke to begin the matsuri.
Got up around 8:00 am so that I could get to the parade route as the floats were starting. Stopped off at a charming little cafe for a light breakfast. For 500 円 (yen) I got a sandwich croissant with an egg and a cup of coffee.
The next stop was to find a spot to watch the Gion Matsuri float parade through the streets. The madness at kawarmachi-doji intersection was unbelievable.
Each year, the "Naginata Boko" float leads the parade (the other floats draw lots for their position in the procession). It is the only float that features a child.
The procession starts with the cutting of the rope. High up on the front of the float is a "Naginata" (long sword) that was made by Munechika (today a replica is used). The sword is swept from side to side as the float moves forward, sweeping away disease and evil. The tip of the sword is never pointed towards Yasaka Shrine or Ghosho.
The craziest thing is watching these guys turn this giant wooden float, it's probably the coolest thing of the parade. The only way for these floats to turn is to be slowly pulled across bamboo so that it slides. I tried to look for a better spot to film it, but at this point there was so many people crowded around the intersection it took about 10 minutes to walk 10 feet; I felt like I was in a sardine can.
Thankfully, after squeezing through the crowd, I found an opening down a back alley that led away from the parade route. My plan was to take the back roads and come out ahead of the parade, where I could have some time to find a good spot and setup my camera to watch it pass me by. I bought a peach flavoured shaved ice while I waited for the floats to catch up.
Naginata Boko making its appearance once again:
The second float in this year's parade was the Moso Yama:
This float depicts the legend of "moso," one of the Chinese "Four-and-twenty Paragons of Filial Piety." In this legend, he searches in the snow for bamboo shoots, which are a favorite food of his mother. At last, he digs up some shoots and please his mother. The train of the float is adorned by a black and white calligraphy design that was painted by Seiho Takeuchi.
Abura Tenjin Yama, a float that enshrines a deity dedicated to the Kazahaya family, is adorned with branches of red plum blossoms. Following that is Hosho Yama, a float that depicts the love story of Yasumasa Hirari, an 11th century Japanese warrior, and his lover, Shikibu Izumi. It is said that followers are able to receive a lucky charm for happiness in marriage.
I think my favourite floats are the "Boko" or individually referred to as "Hoko." They just look more impressive, and as opposed to the "Yama" floats, they weigh on average 12 tons instead of 1.2 to 1.5 tons than that of the Yama style. The group of men that have to pull those things along are equally impressive, especially when it comes to the guile of turning those things 90 degrees at the intersections of the route.
The Kanko Boko was the second "Hoko" float in the parade:
It tells the tale of a lord called "Mashokun" from the Warring States period (476-221 BCE) in China. After fleeing from the Shin, Mashokun reached the Kanko Barrier. As the barrier would only be opened at the sound of the crow of the first cock of the morning, Mashokun had one of his followers mimic the crow of the cock.
The plan worked beautifully, as the real cock joined in the crowing, so the barrier opened and Mashokun was able to pass through. The front of the float has been designated as an important cultural treasure.
Taishi Yama was next in the procession. "Taishi" means "Prince" in Japanese. The figure on the float is Prince Shotoku, and the float depicts the legendary tale of when he went into the woods in search of high quality materials for the Tennoji Temple.
There, he met an old man who told him about a great sacred cedar tree. He used the cedar to build the Rokkakudo. All the other floats hold sacred pines, while a cedar tree stands atop the Taishi Yama float.
Next up is the Shijokasa Boko, Urade Yama, and Niwatori Boko. The Shijokasa was revived and restored to the parade in 1985 after a 117-year absence. The float is a recreation of one of the original halberd types that date back to the times since the Onin War (1467-77 CE).
The Urade Yama depics the Nihon Shoki (Chronicles of Japan) tale of the Empress Jingu Kogo, who goes fishing in the Tamajima River for good luck in battle. It is said that if the float is positioned early in the procession, the women who bear children that year will have an easy delivery.
Niwatori Boko depicts a Chinese story set in the 16th Century, when peace reigned and therefore, the drum that was used in disputes ceased to toll. The drapes that decorate the sides of the float display a 16th Century Belgian painting of a Trojan prince being separated from his wife and children, an important cultural asset.
Next there was this crazy praying mantis float, which I can find no information on, but the crowd seemed to enjoy it a lot. It looked like there was just a mechanical lever moving it randomly, but it could have been someone around the float motioning it.
That last float that I stayed around for was the Tsuki Boko, a float filled with precious art works such as the floral design on the ceiling, carved gables, and a medallion carpet at the front of the float which was made in India in the 17th century (today's is a replica).
It was around noon, and I still had so much to see, so I packed up my camera and walked to the nearby 二条城 Nijō Castle.
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