O'Sulloc green tea

Jeju has a couple large tea plantations scattered around the southern half of the island. They're nothing compared to those in China or Japan, but if you're a fan of green tea or green tea products, then you might want to check them out sometime.

The most popular and tourist friendly is O'Sulloc, located just west of Donggwang-ri around route 1116 or just off route 95 if you're coming from Jeju-si; you can't miss the signs.



O'Sulloc is a company based out of Seoul that bought land on Jeju, and has several outlet stores and cafes within the city.

At the plantation on Jeju is a newly renovated museum, which has an interesting exhibition filled with Korean artist tea-ware along with others collected from around the world. Together with a souvenir shop and a cafe, it makes for a quaint place to sit and enjoy some green tea.



As you can see from the video, it's quite popular with tourists; so expect it to be busy during the summer season. They have a variety of tea rolled cakes, green tea lattes, earl grey tea cookies, green tea ice cream and of course, just regular green tea. Prices from 4,000 won to 8,000 won for individual items.


I decided to go with the ice cream, which was delicious.



Just past the museum are fields and fields of green tea; the weather when I went was nice enough for a pleasant stroll.



With rows upon rows of lustrous green leaves and a looming Sanbangsan in the background, it makes for an exquisite scene.



I'm not exactly sure how they harvest it all, or what the process is from growing it to drinking it in your cup, but I imagine there are guided tours available if you check with the museum reception at the entrance, or at the very least, a brochure.

There is no entrance fee to the museum or to walk around the fields, so feel free to drop by anytime during the day.

So long summer

As the days get shorter and the nights get cooler, the remnants of summer are quickly fading away. It's been a rather enjoyable summer, however rainy and cloudy it has been at times, but I'm looking forward to the Fall.

I've just resigned my contract in Jeju for another year, so I'll have another opportunity to enjoy the summer here again. I'll be traveling for the first two weeks of November back to Canada, which will be a nice break from my regular schedule.

With the arrival of fall, comes the season of oranges. All around my apartment are fields of them, and already I can start to see the change from the summer green sprouts to the blossoming balls of orange and green.



Where at one time I would leave my school and there would still be enough light to go swimming, now has been replaced by the darkness.

So here's a little something to remember those beautiful summer sunsets:



So long summer, I'll see you next year.

Some of my favourite beaches

Having spent as much time as I could on the beaches this summer, and after taking a few tours around the island, I have seen my share of fair beaches that Jeju has to offer. Here are a few of my favourite spots:

Jungmun Beach


Photo by Brian Miller

Probably one of the most popular spots for tourists and locals, Jungmun beach is an incredibly accessible beach located in the heart of the tourist district. There is lots of room and it's within distance of some great places to eat, such as my beloved Gecko's.

It's probably one of the best summer spots for getting some surf, and in the months of May, June and September, it is a lot more peaceful and comfortable. The perfect spot for an early morning swim, or a lazy afternoon of resting and reading. It has become the recent annual host of the Jeju Surf and Rock Festival.

Hyeopjae Beach



Another popular spot, Hyeopjae Beach is one of the most picturesque locations on all of the island. Bright white sands, brilliant shades of blues and an offshore islet against the backdrop of the sky and ocean. If it weren't completely jam-packed with people, it would probably be the best spot on the island. There isn't much waves and the water isn't very deep because of the sand bar that goes out for half a kilometre or so, but it's stunning to look at.

Try venturing away from the main beach and you'll find a more quieter relaxed spot just around the bend, towards Geumneung Beach.

Udo Beach


A lot more reclusive than the previous beaches, Udo island has a beach on its far side that is the perfect spot to enjoy a sunny afternoon. Although harder to get to, Udo beach is worth the trip, especially since there are many other incredible breathtaking views available on the small island.

I recommend organizing a camping trip or renting a 민박 (minbak, a room with a kind of 'bed and breakfast' style) while you're there, because you'll want to spend more than just the one afternoon there after making the trip out.

Gimnyeong Beach



Located on the Northeast side of Jeju, Gimnyeong beach is up there for one of the best beaches. Like Hyeopjae, it is incredibly beautiful, but it has the benefit of being a lot less crowded. I camped out there a few weeks ago after some sailing in the day, and it was absolutely serene.



Bring a book, a snorkel and mask, as well as something to snack on and you'll have yourself a great time. It's within a five minute walk to a bus station that will take you to either Seogwipo or Jeju-si.



It's hasn't been the sunniest summer, with all the days of rain we've gotten in July and August, but the days that have been clear were something to remember. It's important to take full advantage of such occasions, as you may never get a chance like that again. So much can be said about having good weather, good company and a good time.

Japanese Excursion Day 2: Samurai and Sushi (二条城 Nijō-jō, 回転寿司 kaiten-zushi)

The entrance to Nijo Castle is through Higashi-Ōte-mon (Great Eastern Gate), which is today, the main entrance to the UNESCO World Heritage Site.

After paying the 600 yen fee, you're granted access to the castle grounds, which include both Ninomaru and Honmaru palace, several gardens, some cherry and plum tree groves, as well as a souvenir gift shop.



Here is what Ninomaru palace looks like from the outside, near the public entrance to the palace. Tours and groups enter through a different area, they seemed pretty adamant on making sure you use the proper entrance.



They don't let you take any pictures of video inside of the palace, to preserve the artworks on the ceiling and walls, so it's hard to get an idea of what this place actually looks like. Here is a map of Ninomaru palace, the path just follows along the outside of the chambers and circles back around the other side.

An interesting feature about both palaces are the nightingale floors or uguisubari (鴬張り). The floors mimic the chirping sound of a bird when you walk on them. They were designed so that the nails in the floor rub against a clamp, creating a noise, and thereby alarming nearby people of approaching individuals.

Definitely a good way to stop ninja assassins from coming into your bedroom in killing you in the middle of the night. You can hear what is sounds like here.


Here is a picture of The Ōhiroma (Great Hall). It is the central core of the Ninomaru Palace and consists of four chambers:


Just try to imagine no people in the room, the walls a dark stained brown, and you pretty much get the idea of what it looks like nowadays. The artwork is still dimly visible on the walls, which remains completely withdrawn from any natural or artificial lighting.

All the outer walls of the palace are movable, so at one point in time they would just slide them all open for light; I can see torches and candles being a problem in a palace made almost entirely of wood.

I managed to get a quick video outside the Shiroshoin, the Shogun's chambers. He used the area as both his living room and bedroom; kind of like my own place, except I don't get served dinner by beautiful women. Not yet anyway.



Next is a video of Kara-mon, the old entrance to Nijo:



After taking a stroll around Ninomaru's garden, you come upon the Honmaru bridge and moat. One of the most scenic locales inside the castle grounds.



Nearby is Seiryu-en Garden, constructed in 1965, it has over 800 stones brought in from an early Edo-period villa as well as 300 some special stones collected from all across Japan.

One part is a large pond in traditional Japanese style, and the other a spacious lawn in Western style; particularly popular spot for large public tea parties and official receptions.



After picking up some beautifully hand-drawn postcards from the souvenir shop, it was time to leave.

Just a block down from the castle is this quaint small swords shop. Chock-full of katanas, I couldn't help but stop in to see if there was something I could afford.

Spotted some sweet shuriken that I couldn't turn down.



Having not eaten since early in the morning before the parade, I was in the mood for a good meal.

Checked out my Lonely Planet guide book and was led to a nearby conveyor belt sushi (回転寿司 kaiten-zushi) restaurant.



At this place all plates were 120 yen, but at most restaurants, including one I went to recently in Seoul, sushi is priced according to the color of the plate the sushi is on. Gold is usually the most expensive, followed by red, blue and green, for the most part.

You get as much miso soup and green tea as you can drink as well as all the wasabi and soya sauce you will need. It doesn't take long to build up a stack of plates. The sushi there was decent, but well worth it for the price.

Musashi Sushi is located right near the Sanjo covered shopping arcade, just a block up from the northern entrance on Kawaramachi-dori (street).

Jeju Chilmeori Shrine Shaman Performance 제주도 굿

For anyone who has ever been interested in seeing a traditional shaman festival, Jeju is one of the few places you can still see one. The weekend before last was a special performance, held at 관덕정 (Gwandeokjeong) in Jeju City.

Normally there are two "guts" or 굿 (pronounced goo-t) held in February, but because the Jeju Special Self-Governing Province is trying to register the Jeju Chilmeori shrine shaman performance as a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage property, they arranged to have it held earlier in order to qualify for status this coming year.

The performance has already been designated as the 71st major intangible cultural asset since 1980 in Korea. The gods of Chilmeoridan Shrine are Dowonsugamchaljibangkwan and Yowhangheasinbuin. As a couple, "Dowon" controls birth and death, while his wife, "Yowhang," protects woman divers and their living.

The procedure of the "gut" is to call all the gods to the table spread with ritual food. The shaman explains the creation of heaven and earth, and Jeju island's geography and history. Then he explains the performance's date, place, reason to the gods, asking them to eat the offerings on the table.



The shaman calls the two gods, asking them to be seated on the table. Next is a prayer for the fishermen and woman diver's safety and richness in their living. Finally, warding off the entire village's evil and sending the gods back.



This particular "gut" was only about an hour and a half, but was followed by another:



Both Saturday and Sunday were filled with shaman rituals. I only stayed for the one on Saturday, but I'm definitely interested in seeing it again when they hold it again in February.

Japanese Excursion Day 2: 山鉾巡行 Yamaboko Junkō

The main event, or so to speak, of the Gion Matsuri is the Yamaboko Junkō, a parade of floats through the streets of Kyoto. Here is a little history about it:

The floats in the Yoiyama Parade are divided into two groups, Hoko and Yama, and are collectively called Yamaboko (or Yamahoko). There are 9 of the larger Hoko (long pole or halberd) which represent the 66 spears used in the original purification ritual, and 23 of the smaller Yama which carry life-size figures of famous and important people.

All the floats are decorated with beautiful tapestries both from Nishijin (the finest in all of Japan) and imported from all over the world. In addition to the art, there are many traditional musicians and artists sitting in the floats.

Each year the families that maintain the floats draw lots at a special meeting to determine what order they will take in the festival. These lots are issued at a special ceremony before the parade, during which the Mayor of Kyoto dons the robes of a magister.

On the Naginata Hoko is the chigo, a young boy in Shinto robes and crowned by a golden phoenix, chosen from among the Kyoto merchant families as the deity's sacred page. After weeks of special purification ceremonies, during which he lives isolated from contaminating influences such as the presence of women, he is carried atop the float as he is not permitted to touch the ground. The boy must cut a sacred rope (shimenawa) with a single stroke to begin the matsuri.

Got up around 8:00 am so that I could get to the parade route as the floats were starting. Stopped off at a charming little cafe for a light breakfast. For 500 円 (yen) I got a sandwich croissant with an egg and a cup of coffee.

The next stop was to find a spot to watch the Gion Matsuri float parade through the streets. The madness at kawarmachi-doji intersection was unbelievable.

Each year, the "Naginata Boko" float leads the parade (the other floats draw lots for their position in the procession). It is the only float that features a child.

The procession starts with the cutting of the rope. High up on the front of the float is a "Naginata" (long sword) that was made by Munechika (today a replica is used). The sword is swept from side to side as the float moves forward, sweeping away disease and evil. The tip of the sword is never pointed towards Yasaka Shrine or Ghosho.

The craziest thing is watching these guys turn this giant wooden float, it's probably the coolest thing of the parade. The only way for these floats to turn is to be slowly pulled across bamboo so that it slides. I tried to look for a better spot to film it, but at this point there was so many people crowded around the intersection it took about 10 minutes to walk 10 feet; I felt like I was in a sardine can.

Thankfully, after squeezing through the crowd, I found an opening down a back alley that led away from the parade route. My plan was to take the back roads and come out ahead of the parade, where I could have some time to find a good spot and setup my camera to watch it pass me by. I bought a peach flavoured shaved ice while I waited for the floats to catch up.



Naginata Boko making its appearance once again:



The second float in this year's parade was the Moso Yama:

This float depicts the legend of "moso," one of the Chinese "Four-and-twenty Paragons of Filial Piety." In this legend, he searches in the snow for bamboo shoots, which are a favorite food of his mother. At last, he digs up some shoots and please his mother. The train of the float is adorned by a black and white calligraphy design that was painted by Seiho Takeuchi.

Abura Tenjin Yama, a float that enshrines a deity dedicated to the Kazahaya family, is adorned with branches of red plum blossoms. Following that is Hosho Yama, a float that depicts the love story of Yasumasa Hirari, an 11th century Japanese warrior, and his lover, Shikibu Izumi. It is said that followers are able to receive a lucky charm for happiness in marriage.



I think my favourite floats are the "Boko" or individually referred to as "Hoko." They just look more impressive, and as opposed to the "Yama" floats, they weigh on average 12 tons instead of 1.2 to 1.5 tons than that of the Yama style. The group of men that have to pull those things along are equally impressive, especially when it comes to the guile of turning those things 90 degrees at the intersections of the route.

The Kanko Boko was the second "Hoko" float in the parade:

It tells the tale of a lord called "Mashokun" from the Warring States period (476-221 BCE) in China. After fleeing from the Shin, Mashokun reached the Kanko Barrier. As the barrier would only be opened at the sound of the crow of the first cock of the morning, Mashokun had one of his followers mimic the crow of the cock.

The plan worked beautifully, as the real cock joined in the crowing, so the barrier opened and Mashokun was able to pass through. The front of the float has been designated as an important cultural treasure.

Taishi Yama was next in the procession. "Taishi" means "Prince" in Japanese. The figure on the float is Prince Shotoku, and the float depicts the legendary tale of when he went into the woods in search of high quality materials for the Tennoji Temple.

There, he met an old man who told him about a great sacred cedar tree. He used the cedar to build the Rokkakudo. All the other floats hold sacred pines, while a cedar tree stands atop the Taishi Yama float.



Next up is the Shijokasa Boko, Urade Yama, and Niwatori Boko. The Shijokasa was revived and restored to the parade in 1985 after a 117-year absence. The float is a recreation of one of the original halberd types that date back to the times since the Onin War (1467-77 CE).

The Urade Yama depics the Nihon Shoki (Chronicles of Japan) tale of the Empress Jingu Kogo, who goes fishing in the Tamajima River for good luck in battle. It is said that if the float is positioned early in the procession, the women who bear children that year will have an easy delivery.

Niwatori Boko depicts a Chinese story set in the 16th Century, when peace reigned and therefore, the drum that was used in disputes ceased to toll. The drapes that decorate the sides of the float display a 16th Century Belgian painting of a Trojan prince being separated from his wife and children, an important cultural asset.



Next there was this crazy praying mantis float, which I can find no information on, but the crowd seemed to enjoy it a lot. It looked like there was just a mechanical lever moving it randomly, but it could have been someone around the float motioning it.



That last float that I stayed around for was the Tsuki Boko, a float filled with precious art works such as the floral design on the ceiling, carved gables, and a medallion carpet at the front of the float which was made in India in the 17th century (today's is a replica).



It was around noon, and I still had so much to see, so I packed up my camera and walked to the nearby 二条城 Nijō Castle.

Chujado 추자도

After finishing my three day trip round the coast of Jeju, Muggs, Naomi and myself decided to check out the nearby island of Chujado 추자도.

When we arrived at the Jeju ferry terminal down on the Jeju-si harbour front, we discovered that the price to take a van across was about 130,000 won, and that's not including a driver's fee (4,500 won) and two tickets for passengers (8,000 won each).

Having spoken with some others about the means of transportation on the island, it seemed like a van was a necessity to really explore the island in the time we had with all the camping supplies we brought. So we split the fare and boarded the ferry bound for the small island.

Chujado is actually a small group of some 40 islets located about two hours away by ferry (an hour by the speedier catamaran, 10,000 per ticket).

Most inhabitants live on the two larger islands, which are connected via bridge. I had heard that the bridge collapsed a year or two ago and several people were killed; it was rebuilt, and from my experience, it seems alright now.


What's even harder to believe is that there is a foreign teacher working on the island. It's nice there, don't get me wrong, but there is no way I'd want to live there as the only native English speaking person. Being able to speak Korean there is a must, there is just no way to get around it.

There are a few sights there, such as a lighthouse atop the higher inland ground, a couple shrines and a tomb. There are a few marts and restaurants around the main town, located on the second island.


Our ride to the island was exceptionally smooth, we had ourselves a few cans of beer and played some cards. We got into port about 3:30 pm:



Driving around the island with a van was like trying to fit a cow into a dog's house; we were really off-roadin' it. Muggs handled himself at the wheel like a pro. There is no way I would ever attempt something like that myself.

After taking a tour of both islands along the road, we stopped at Kingmart for some BBQ supplies. We had found a nice quiet pebble beach on the Eastern side of the first island, the cove where number five is on the map:


Photo by Muggs Alexander

We setup our tents, collected some drift wood and began our dinner preparations.

Early Sunday morning we took the ferry back to Jeju, although this time we weren't so lucky with the waves; people left and right were throwing up, even I was starting to feel upset after two hours of roller coaster riding.

It was a unique adventure, but if I came back again I would probably bring my scooter along with some fishing gear and possibly a snorkel with some fins. There just isn't enough land there to do much else than take a few pictures and read a book.

Photo and map provided by Jim Saunders

The 5th Jeju Peace Forum 제5회 제주평화포럼

Back around the beginning of August, I attended the 5th Jeju Peace Forum at the Haevichi Hotel and Resort in Pyoseon. I was covering the Peace Forum for the Jeju Weekly, and wrote a couple of articles about it. The first, about its history and what this forum was expected to include, is found here.

I got to the hotel around 9:00 am on Wednesday, the second day of the forum. Scheduled was the opening keynote speech of the forum by South Korean Prime Minister Han Seung-soo, however, because of the winds, his flight was unable to make it time, so his speech was postponed 'til later in the afternoon.

In lieu of the opening speech, the forum went right into the first plenary session: the World Leaders' Session, entitled "Toward the 21st Century of Mutual Benefit and Common Prosperity." Speakers were former South Korean Prime Minister Lee Hong-Koo and former Australian Prime Minister John Howard with Park Jin residing as Chair.

I was particularly excited about hearing from John Howard, who was the 25th Prime Minister of Australia and was in office from 1996 to 2007. He is the second-longest serving Australian Prime Minister. Here is part of his speech from the plenary session:



Here is Park Jin discussing with the two speakers about the recent visit by former U.S. President Clinton to North Korea to negotiate the release of the two American journalists, Laura Ling and Euna Lee, captured by North Korean soldiers when they "mistakingly" crossed over the Chinese border into North Korean territory.



On Thursday, the second keynote speech was delivered by United Nations Secretary General Ban Ki-moon. Despite the little mix-up with security passes, the Jeju Weekly staff finally managed to get in before the end of his speech.

It was a little frustrating, but worth it when we got inside. His speech, together with South Korean Prime Minister Han Seung-soo's, was well spoken, stressing the need for more co-operation and union between not only East Asia, but the world as a whole. You can get the full details about their speeches from my second article, published in the most recent issue of Jeju Weekly.

Another note of interest during the forum was seeing Russian billionaire Oleg Deripaska. I recently had watched a documentary about him on the BBC, how he built up his empire from almost nothing and how he lost billions because of the global financial crisis.



He is certainly not the most inspiring or exciting person to hear a speech from, but his life story is very compelling and worth reading about.

Overall, I was really excited about going to the forum and having a chance to experience such an event, especially here on Jeju.

I'se the b'y that sails her

As usual, the first week of every month is a hectic time for me: correcting tests, marking report sheets and making a new class schedule, but coupled with the fact that it's the last days of summer, I have been otherwise neglecting my blogging duties. This month I hope to catch everyone up to speed on what has been going on this summer.

The last two weeks, I've had the pleasure of going sailing at the Gimnyeong Yacht Club, with club member Jerry Cotter, an Irish priest who has been in Korea for over 54 years. He recently did an interview with Jeju Weekly writer Carey Steward. You can read it here.

I was on a road trip around the coast of Jeju island and had time to go out sailing. So I made it a priority to call Jerry, whose number I got through a mutual friend, and arranged to go out the Friday before last.

I met up with Jerry and former club member, Ralf Deutsch, who is also as interesting a character here on Jeju. Ralf owns and operates Big Blue 33, an English friendly dive shop in Seogwipo. He also did an interview with Jeju Weekly, which you can find here.

So preparing our catamaran "Eskimo" at 10:30 in the morning, we made our way slowly out of the harbour on motor power; hoisting the main sail and jib, we were on our way.

I hadn't been sailing for almost two years now and was really starting to miss the relaxing experience that comes from it. The fresh air, the open water, and feeling of being a part of the ocean around you.

When you go out with someone, it's also a very different experience. You get to know people on a more personal level, and sharing the experience with them makes it that much more.

This past weekend, I had yet another opportunity to go sailing. Again I went out with Jerry, but this time I brought along my friend Muggs, who hadn't been sailing since he was about 13 or 14 years old.



This time we took out the mono-hull yacht, "Rascal", and it just fit five people. It was Muggs, Jerry, club member K.H. (initials, not sure on his full name), Australian sailing enthusiast Sherrin (not sure on spelling), and myself out on the sea. The weather was just absolutely perfect, but by Sherrin's standards, "Winter in Australia."



For me, it was more than hot enough out on the water; I was beginning to feel a bit dehydrated, but managed to overcome that with some pocari sweat (a Korean version of gatorade). We all exchanged some interesting stories and contributed to a lengthy discussion on Korea, Jeju, and how they've changed over the years as well as what the future might hold.

It was a good four and half hour sail, which ended with us sailing into harbour; Muggs thoroughly enjoyed it, as did I.

For 10,000 won, it's certainly worth the price for a unique experience out on the water. To become a member, it's 200,000 won for a dinghy certification course and then 30,000 in annual dues. To get your yachting license, you need to do a written test and then a practice run either in Busan or Seoul, which amounts to 50-60,000 won. If you're serious about sailing in Korea, it's probably a good option, especially if you want access to the yachts provided through the club.

Either way, I'll definitely be out sailing again in the future.

H1N1 Influenza / Swine Flu reaches shores of Jeju

The past few weeks there have been some reports of Swine Flu infection on Jeju island, and as a precaution, all schools, hagwon and public, are enforcing several methods to stop it from spreading.

EPIK teachers, who have either gone home during the last month or who have just arrived, have been given a week off just to make sure they don't have anything they could spread to the kids. Suddenly, Swine Flu doesn't sound that bad.

I've heard from other hagwon teachers that directors have been going around checking both students and teachers with ear thermometers, yet in most cases, haven't been washing them between uses. That's just gross.

At my own school, we've started making the kids wash their hands with disinfectants as they enter the school and have put up instruction/warning sheets around the school on what to do in case of H1N1 symptoms that are found. From what I gather, it's anyone who coughs, has a sore throat, or any flu like symptoms is supposed to be separated from the class and then sent to the hospital.

Despite all that's going on, it seems to me that most of what has been put into place is just to sooth parents' minds about their children. I'm pretty sure nothing serious is really going to happen, and even if it did, that our efforts wouldn't do much to stop it. But at the very least, now is probably the best time if you're a teacher to get away with taking that sick day you've always been dreaming of.