In the hands of a master

Anyone can take a piece of wood and attempt to make something out of it, but it takes someone with a lot of skill and creativity to turn that wood into a masterpiece. Whether it be carpentry, sculpting, carving, or any type of craftsmen work, Mr. Young is the answer to them all.

His works are pretty popular around the island and sell upwards of 30,000,000 won. It takes a lot of time and patience to do what he does, and that's probably why he is so good at it. He's a very laid back individual, who doesn't mind taking his time with his work so that it gets done right the first time.

I consider myself to be a lucky individual as normally I would be paying tens of thousands of won for the lesson...instead, all he asks is that I help him with his English, and believe me, its a lot easier than a classroom full of kindergartens. Most of his students speak English as well, so as far as making conversation goes, its pretty easy.



Its only my second lesson and I'm already thinking about all the things I could make for my apartment or my family back home, but first, I have to learn the ways of woodworking. This week we took it a bit easier, as Mr. Young wanted to learn more about me and my interests. Due to the fact that I arrived just shortly before dinner, I only had time enough to do some quick engraving. Earlier in the week, I had received some pieces of an orange tree that had been fashioned into key chains. I took one and started drawing...



He invited me out to his place for dinner, and together with some of his other students, we sat around a traditional Korean table that was shaped like the island of Jeju. It was a cross section of a tree that just naturally took that shape and it was probably around 150 years old. We started out the evening with some popular Korean wine, makgeolli (pronounced mac-ko-li).

Its sort of an off white colour and tastes somewhat like sparkling water, and has about the same amount of alcohol as a beer. Traditionally you shake the bottle vigorously before pouring, and when you do pour it, usually its put into a teapot and then poured into these tin bowls. However, not everyone has a teapot on hand, so straight to the bowl from bottle is acceptable when out drinking in public. When a Korean sees you drinking makgeolli, especially an elderly male, they will be quite impressed by your choice; Naturally, Mr. Young was happy to see me show up with a bottle of it in my hands.

Looking around his living quarters, the room is almost completely filled with various tables and pieces of work, some still unfinished.



After spending a few moments to take a look around, it was time to rejoin my host and his other guests for some dinner. Mrs. Young made up a delicious winter salad and a kind of red chili sauce squid dish. I never tried squid before, so I thought this might be a good time. It didn't really have much taste, but it was rather chewy. The rest of the dish had sauteed onions, carrots, and peppers in it, so it made a nice balance. With a bowl of makgeolli's, it was a delightful meal.

Besides being a master craftsmen, apparently he is also champion dog breeder, as well as a music collector. He showed me some pictures from his dog breeding days (he still has four dogs around the house, all cute and cuddly) and put on a Kenny Rogers LP album; it sounded fantastic. Looking around at his stereo, he boasts quite the impressive collection of analogue stereo components.



We listened to some wonderful Gaelic music, which from the lyrics I assume was from somewhere on the east coast of Canada; it made me feel right at home. He also put on some French music which also sounded Canadian, I did some translating for everyone...well, the best I could. He put on some Korean music next, which had a very Santana feel to it, he was even kind enough to give me a CD of the artist.



We chatted for a couple of hours about various interests and cultural differences; it was a good way to start off our relationship. Next week is New Years, so we're taking a break, but the following week I'll be back again for another lesson with the master. Here's a little video of the finished key chain, Mr. Young did the maple leaf while I engraved the Dol Hareubang on the other side.

Christmas In Korea

Its that time of the year again, when family and friends gather together to celebrate love and friendship, and here on Jeju we're trying our best to do the same. This was my first year away from home for Christmas, and as hard as that was to accept at first, I'm sure it won't be the last.

They saying goes, "home is where the heart is," and I firmly believe in that. It doesn't matter whether you're staying with your family in the house you were raised in, or visiting friends in a far away city, the only thing that's important is that you try and spend what time you can with the people you care about...or at the very least, with people you can stand to be around for more than ten minutes.

To liven things up a bit more on the island, and in an attempt to join in on the Christmas spirit, we celebrated with the 2nd Annual Christmas Pub Jumper last weekend. For those of you who are unfamiliar with the term "jumper", it simply refers to a sweater. A sweater you "sweat" in, which makes obvious reference to its warming properties, but do we "jump" in a jumper? Maybe its jump into a jumper? Either way, I was confused...but nothing a little alcohol couldn't remedy.

We started the night off by all meeting up at this popular spot down on the waterfront in Seogwipo-si, Tipi (or Teepee). Usually, I've been told, there is a tipi setup on the patio out back that you can actually sit in and drink; it must have been in the shop for repairs. What started off as a few people soon erupted into a full size party, with guests arriving with their secret santa gifts. Many people, not myself, had participated in a secret santa, and the party was the perfect time to exchange their gifts. Even though I didn't get anything, it was still nice to see someone opening a gift.



After several pictures and pints of beer, some of us decided to get this jumper challenge going and head off to the next bar. What I wasn't aware of was that we would be walking up a steep hill to get there. Even so, we made our way in several groups towards the downtown district of Seogwipo-si.

We stopped at the batting cages and I couldn't resist the opportunity. I managed to hit a few, which is about on par with how I usually fare. I noticed the soccer ball kicking game out of the corner of my eye, and again, I just had to give it another go. After setting the high score of the evening (again), I then connected with the steel bar that held it together, and in doing so, injured myself; it really hurt...a lot. I'll definitely think twice about trying that again.

Limping along the way, we made it to our next stop and cast our vote in the ugliest sweater of evening. Unfortunately I didn't win, but not everything is about winning, but rather how you deal with losing; more drinking seemed like an appropriate response.

After a few more stops and a few more drinks, I decided to call it a night and headed off. I really enjoyed the night, and it definitely brought out the "spirit" in Christmas. However, the christmas festivities didn't stop there, that was just the beginning.

Only a few short days later and it was Christmas eve, and at work, we decided to celebrate with a "cuny" party. Cuny are these lamented cards that we use at my school as a kind of reward. Every time a student does something good, or does well on a test or in class, we give them some cuny. Every other month we have a party where the kids can exchange these cards for candy, chips, toys, etc., anything and everything a kid could want. It comes in values of 10, 50, 100, 500, 1000, and 2000. The better the student, the more cuny awarded. Its a good system, and seems to work well with keeping the kids in line.

Since it was Christmas eve, we thought a holiday cuny party was appropriate. So after buying some supplies and getting everything ready, the kids stormed our school with screams of joy and excitement that no sane adult can bare.



My job for the day was to think of some fun games and activities to preoccupy some of kids, so that they didn't overwhelm the cuny counter with demands for this and that. I thought of a few games including: Santa says (similar to simon says), a rock-paper-scissors team challenge to spell Ho-ho-ho with letters drawn from a bag, a blind snowman drawing game, and pin the carrot nose on Frosty. The last seemed to be the most popular with kids, so we ended up playing that one the most.



After a long day of playing virtually non-stop games with the kids, I was glad to come home to a peaceful and quiet apartment. Waking up bright and early, I had hoped to have a Skype call with my family back in Canada, but due to some unforeseen problems, I had to settle for a msn chat instead. Although not as rewarding as actually hearing their voices and seeing their faces, it was still good to chat with the family altogether.

I did however, get a gift for Christmas, although it wasn't from my family, but I have already received two brand new cameras before coming to Jeju as a present...so that makes up for it. Still, a card would have been nice. The one thing I did get on Christmas was a decent turkey dinner, complete with stuffing, gravy, and cranberry sauce. A few of my new friends and I opted to go to Gecko's for their festive feast, which they have been offering all this month...and it was delicious.



The owner of Gecko's was a good friend of Brian's, and she bought us a few rounds of shots. We raised our glasses together, and in holiday fashion, wished each other a merry Christmas. To each and everyone, I wish you a merry Christmas and happy holidays!

Back to school? Wood shop please!

When my director told me that we were going to be meeting at the school at 7:30 in the morning on a Saturday, I wasn't impressed. We all do what we need to do to survive, and in this case, the school was doing exactly that; They got us up bright and early so that we could advertise in front of a local elementary school.

Despite cutting into my sleeping time, I didn't get the worst of it, as some of the staff who had to travel from Jeju city had to get up even earlier to make the 50+ minute drive here.

During the week our staff had put together about a thousand of these "gift bags" for our short campaign. There was about a dozen boxes or so stacked away in the office, which we moved out to the school on Saturday.



Basically I was the attraction of the advertising, we handed out gift bags with free teaching hours in them and information pamphlets about our school. Perhaps we would have done better if I was dressed as a clown...maybe not, either way we attracted some attention from the kids and their parents who were dropping them off. I opted to wear a nice shirt and tie, complete with dress pants and shoes, something that I'm glad to say I'm not required to do while teaching.

Unlike in North America, all kids here go to school on Saturday. Although it is a shorter day, usually ending sometime around lunch. Still, none of the kids I saw looked very happy to be out at 8:00 am on a Saturday morning; the feeling was mutual.



The strange thing I noticed was that instead of grass, there was sand on the playground/field...and no beach volleyball court either. Anyway, in a matter of minutes the grounds were stormed with children, many who very surprised to see a foreigner greeting them at the entrance.

I saw a few of my students and exchanged greetings with them as they walked to school; it made me feel a bit more comfortable. I thought we did quite well for such a short period, handing out almost all of our bags. Even though I'm sure a good percentage will end up in the garbage, every little bit helps. I was told that if we got between 3-5 new students it would be considered a big success.

By 8:40, almost all students had arrived, and so we decided to head back to our school for some breakfast. We were served what I was told would be oatmeal, but instead more resembled a rice soup with vegetables in it. After a small bowl and a cup of coffee we all left for home; I went back to bed.

Only a few short hours later, I arranged to meet with one of the teachers, Mrs. Kim, from my school. She introduced me to a friend of hers, whom was a Korean wood craftsmen and sculptor. I was very excited at the prospect of getting some free lessons, in exchange for making conversation with him.

I expected someone who probably didn't speak any English, but he spoke quite well for someone who taught himself. We didn't really have any trouble understanding one another, as you learn quickly how to fill in the blanks. Something which comes only natural from being in such an environment.

After an exchange of greetings and a small tour, she left me at his shop for the afternoon. Together with a few other students, some of which also spoke some English, we started working on our projects. Lesson One: How to make a traditional Korean cutting board.



I was promptly given a few pieces of wood and told to sand all the edges off them. Using an electric belt sander, I made quick work of the board and two legs and moved on to step two, gluing the pieces together.

Mr. Young has been working with woodcraft and sculpting for over forty years, and used to work making children's puzzle games. I felt quite honored to be taking a class from someone as skilled as him.

After gluing on the legs (which only slightly raised the height of the board) to the bottom of the board, Mr. Young started shaving some of the pieces, adjusting it so that it was balanced.



Next we stopped to have a noodle snack with some hot tea and sweet-bean paste filled biscuits, of course served with some homemade kimchi. The third and final step to the board was to brush a bit of olive oil onto it, thereby somewhat coating the board with a finish. I asked about possibly putting an engraving onto it, but he recommended that I didn't, since the wood we were using, Jeju cedar, was too soft. However, I decided to try anyway, as I was inspired by his work he had shown me earlier around his home.

After a few trial runs on some spare pieces of wood, I sketched a Dol Hareubang (a grandfather stone, a kind of jeju island mascot and icon) with the symbols for Jeju-do (Jeju island) onto my cutting board. I think I did remarkably well and Mr. Young was impressed with my work. He said none of his students had never really tried doing engraving before, and certainly not in their first lesson. Something I hope to do more of next class...



In all, it was quite an enjoyable afternoon for everyone. It reminded me a lot of junior high wood shop class, and it brought back some good memories. I got to meet his students and Mr. Young has invited me for dinner for next weekend; I've been told that his barbecuing skills are equally impressive...I guess we'll find out soon.

Return to Halla Mountain

Since coming to the island, I have had the opportunity to climb the tallest mountain in Korea several times. This week was my third trip to climb it's great snowy peak, and while it was the same trail I have travelled before, I always find something new and inspiring about it each time I go.

However, before I go into detail about my newest adventure, I thought I would take a few moments to talk about another favourite pastime of mine here on Jeju; Eating out. The food here can be quite good, but also quite bad; it all depends on your perspective and preferences. I admit I am not a big sea food enthusiast, which to many on the island would be a shock, considering most diets here include some sort of fish or seafood.

Having established that fact, I am finding many meals that I do enjoy. One of my favourites so far has been meat: beef, pork, chicken, everything I have tried so far has been delicious...which begs the question, should I eat dog?

Almost everyone in North America would choke on the idea, if not be outright offended at someone eating a dog. Obviously there are some issues that I struggle with mentally, but having spoken with the locals here and many of my foreigner friends, it doesn't seem that odd to them, and the idea, I must admit, is beginning to grow on me.

The dogs are raised like any other livestock and are probably treated with the same abuse that every other animal goes through before its killed. Meat is meat, and as long as the animal goes to good use, I don't have a problem with it...if I did, I would be a vegetarian. I have been invited out a few times to try dog soup, which I've been told by many is quite good, but will I still be thinking of some poor dog when a hot bowl of soup is front of me? I don't know, but I'll probably find out soon enough...

Getting back to meat, on monday the teaching staff at our school went out for dinner. This time we chose a place that was more convenient for everyone, as it was not fair to those traveling back to Jeju city to eat somewhere in downtown Seogwipo. It was some place past the Jungmun resort area, and was more secluded than the last restaurant we went to. Again we had pork, and it was served in a similar table grill fashion...yum!



Having used chopsticks almost exclusively since arriving here six weeks ago, I am quickly becoming adept. The compliments being thrown my way also help out too.

As I have discussed before, the pork here is eaten in a kind of lettuce leaf folding fashion, where you bundle everything together and pop it in your mouth. The assortment of side dishes that go with it are also very tasty: onion salad, red bean chili paste, soy sauce soaked spicy peppers, kimchi (radish, cucumber, and the traditional cabbage style), garlic cloves, and salt in a sesame oil. Mix together what you want and enjoy, its as simply as that.

After the main course, many people usually go with a noodle dish. The options: spicy, or non spicy. Both are served in a giant bowl with ice, and could be considered a meal themselves...



Usually there is half a boiled egg placed on top of them as well, mix it up and serve. By this time, I am usually too full having eaten my weight in pork. After the meal, we were served a small cup of coffee...just perfect I thought. After exchanging a few stories, we decided to call it a night, as some of us had to be up early the next morning to climb a volcano.

We decided we would leave a bit earlier this time, hoping to spend more time in the sauna afterwards. We started our hike at about 6:45 in the morning and it was still dark out. I opted for the ice spikes this time, as it seemed like there was more snow on the ground.

Only a few nights ago, we had a full moon, so the moonlight helped our way through the woods as we began our journey. It was also incredibly beautiful.



This time I brought along some jeju orange chocolate to snack on while we rested, not bad, but orange chocolate isn't exactly my favourite. Perhaps a bit colder and with a little more snow than last time, its still such a marvelous sight to behold. I think I'm also getting more used to the climb as well, as I no longer need so many breaks before the midway rest station.



Taking a deep breath, I look out over the landscape, as the morning fog slowly rolls over the mountain and down onto the hills below. It gives such a calming and peaceful sense; I could sit there all day...but I can't, so I get up and continue on my trek.



The snow covered trees look like frozen works of art; the wind is their sculptor. I stop to snack on an orange, and pose with a friend for the camera.



Finally, the sun rises from behind the great cliff, shining its light onto the Oreum below. Looking out on the horizon, it feels like I'm above the clouds, entering the realm of the mountain gods.



I walk through the forest looking for familiar sights, and I find a few new ones. The best part is coming up, leaving the woods behind, and walking onto the plain on the top of the mountain. The fluffy clouds and snow look like mirror images, like a reflection in water.



Stopping for a quick drink at the river, we head off for our traditional feast; ramyon. Nothing like a hot cup of noodles on a cold day. Throw in an egg roll (like an omelette rolled up), some kimchi, and coffee, and you have yourself a perfect meal. Its 9 am and we decide its time to head back. Time for Jimgilbang (a sauna room and bath spa).

Chillin' at Gecko's

The last week has not been particularly eventful and I have spent most of it trying to recover from a cold, so I haven't had much to write about. This Saturday I decided it was time to rejoin society and really boost my health by knocking back a few pints of guinness (actual draft guinness) from the local foreigner friendly spot, Gecko's Island.

Known to most around here simply as "Gecko's", it is a kind of pub or grill that you can normally find back home just about anywhere. Here on Jeju it offers not only a taste of western cooking, but a fun and familiar atmosphere as well. Gecko's is about a 20-25 minute drive from downtown Seogwipo, and from where I am, near World Cup Stadium, it is only about a 10 minute cab ride costing around 6000 won.

Last night was the 1st anniversary of Gecko's, so the staff were celebrating by having a free BBQ out on the patio. I arrived to meet up with Brian, whom I met last week at the gallery in Jeju-si, and he was kind enough to introduce me to his friends and the foreigner crew that frequent the place.



After showing up, I quickly learned of the free food and made my way to the patio. Plenty of ribs, chicken, sausages, and pork cutlets to go around, not to mention a salad bar with some bread...no butter though. After making quick work of my food, I joined in on a game of darts that was going on. I wasn't very good, but hopefully that will change with time...



A pint or two later, everyone was having a great time. I was surprised how busy the place got, and even more surprised by the fact that there was Korean children running around everywhere. I was told that it was pretty common, because of the pension (a kind of inn or motel) next door. Overall it was a pretty good night, I made some new friends and I'm sure I'll be back again soon.

Shooting in Bagdad

In the past week or two I have been in contact with Jim Saunders, the editor of Jeju Life. Having discussed with him about my background in documentary media, he was very interested in having me work with him on some projects for Jeju Life. For those of you who have yet to check out the link on my blog, Jeju Life is an online magazine (last printed issue was this December) that covers a variety of topics and subjects here on Jeju island. The staff is made up of mostly native English speakers and teachers from around the globe.

This weekend was our first attempt at producing a short video for the website, and I was very excited about the opportunity. Our first project was to focus on Brian Miller's gallery at the Bagdad cafe. Brian is a photographer who has been living in Jeju for 3 years and is also the deputy editor at Jeju Life.

I first met with Brian early Saturday morning, as we were taking the bus together to Jeju city. I noticed it was snowing outside, so I decided to test out my new winter coat, and I'm glad I did.



We grabbed the 9:55 bus to Jeju city and were quite surprised at the current weather conditions, as it seemed to be getting worse outside by the minute. Apparently, from what Brian told me, there was quite a few accidents last night from the snow. Many cars ran off the road, some of them running into palm trees, and even one car he mentioned had flipped over. It didn't seem that far-fetched after taking a look out our window...



Despite the current weather, we arrived in Jeju city pretty much on time. Brian phoned Jim ahead of time so that we could meet up in Dunkin' Donuts for some coffee, which I thought was a splendid idea. It was another friendly reminder of home and I enjoyed the fantastic selection of donuts available...I went with the traditional strawberry jelly filled donut.



After some introductions and spending a few minutes exchanging stories, we decided it was time to head out to the Bagdad Cafe, before the lunchtime rush began. Only a few blocks away, the Bagdad cafe is a cozy little spot with a delightful atmosphere. I took out my HD camera and started shooting out front of the cafe. Jim and I discussed what kind of shots would work best in the cafe, given the lighting conditions and our audio limitations.



For our first video project, I think everything went smoothly, and we will find out in the next week or so how everything turned out when I finish editing the video. Jim treated me to lunch and I went with the tandoori chicken with a side of samosas. I didn't expect a whole chicken to be served, but what was even more surprising was that I was able to finish it all.

Jim offered to show me around the city, so when we finished our meals, we left for the market. We decided to grab a cab, as it was quite cold outside and Brian was lacking in the winter clothing department.

The market is an outdoor roofed shopping district where many people come for fresh produce and cheap articles/clothing. I was told that people get really upset and even confront you if you are taking pictures, so I tried to keep my video to a minimum.



There are many surprising fruits and meats there, each more stranger than the last. What I assumed was a lemon, is actually an orange. They are also grown here on Jeju and taste somewhat like grapefruit, from what I've heard...good with sugar, or in jams.

Walking through the meat/fish section of the market, I was amazed at the variety of things available...however I didn't see any dog, but I think that dog meat is more of a summer treat. Most of the sellers are older women, whose husbands are probably the fishermen that supply the fish for their trade. It is a way of life here, but you have to wonder, with all the competition and various suppliers, if its even worth their time.



Our next stop around the city was to checkout the underground shopping district, which is also used to connect pedestrians to the opposite sides of the busiest intersection in the city.



We cruised around the stores for a while, but the prices here weren't nearly as cheap as the market. More similar to any shopping center or mall, they had fashions for almost everyone. With not much else to do on the agenda, due in part to the cold weather, Brian decided to head home and get some rest. Both Brian and myself were suffering from a cold, so keeping indoors was probably a good idea.

Jim and I decided to seek out the nearest PC bang, which is a PC "room". Very popular throughout Korea, PC bangs are a kind of computer cafe for gamers. The first one we went to was one of Jim's preferred spots, but because it was the weekend and rather cold outside, it was filled to occupancy.



Not to worry, we only walked about another block before seeing a sign for another. As you walk in, you're presented with a card with an access number. After you choose a computer and a seat to your liking, which isn't hard since they are all the same, you simply turn on your computer and enter in the access number to begin.



We tried several different games, but were unable to get any multiplayer (two or more people playing the same game) working on them. Finally we found one that worked, and it was an oldie and a classic for me; Diablo II. I think I must have put more than a few months of my life into this game in my time, and it was just as good as I remembered. Jim had never played it before, so I gave him a few pointers and we started hacking our way through pixelated demons.

After spending a good hour and a half questing our way through dungeons, we were both feeling a bit groggy and decided some fresh air would do us good. We walked a bit further and headed towards the city harbor. Jim pointed out some areas of interest to me, as we stood in front of the splashing waves.



Nearby we grabbed some coffee at another Dunkin' Donuts, and I was introduced to the Happy Point card. At various outlets, you can present your card and collect points to buy things with them. The points are equivalent to won, so with 4000 points you can buy probably a coffee and a donut. I earned about 140 points from my purchase, which isn't all that bad. Anything free in my opinion is awesome. We chatted for a bit and then Jim and I grabbed a cab to the bus terminal.

Jim was kind enough to point out the bus that would take me pretty much to my doorstep. So I quickly purchased a ticket and got on. The trip home was a lot longer than the trip to the city, as the full effects of the weather had finally taken their toll on the roads. It was a slow and steady ride, with plenty of stops and car accidents along the way...I got home eventually, and went to bed almost immediately.

Let it snow

So I walked out of my apartment this morning, and to my surprise, there was snow on the ground...and in the air. It was snowing...how can this be?



Well today was probably the coldest it has been since I arrived, and it will even get down to a low of 1 degree Celsius tonight. While the weekly forecast looks to be a lot warmer come next week (as high as 17), it is still something to see so much snow (only a few centimetres) in an area that otherwise doesn't get this much this early into December.

Driving conditions are probably the biggest threat to the area, as most roads for those traveling between the cities are extremely dangerous and likely to have black ice in some areas. It took some of the teachers coming from Jeju-si (Jeju city) almost an hour and a half to get to the school, in what normally would take half that time.

During the day it got even worse, as winds picked up and snow was blazing in every direction. Students were even squatting around the personal heaters we have in the school with their winter coats and mitts on. It reminded me of an average day back in Canada, but something that I wasn't really prepared for here.

Today was the day I finally broke down and bought a winter coat, as per my director's advice, and it was probably a good idea, as I was feeling a bit cold with only my sweater to keep me warm. We are also planning to make our third trip up the volcano next week and the new coat will surely help. I spent about 39,000 won on a decent coat at E-mart, which is relatively cheap compared to anything I could get back home for the same quality. Together with my hat and gloves, I only need to get some ice spikes and I'll be ready for anything that the mountain can throw at me...except maybe an avalanche.



When I got home I took a look out on my balcony...not the most pleasant sight, but a familiar one at the very least.

A bit of heaven

In Korea, Christianity makes up roughly a third of the population, and here on Jeju, its much the same. Its hard not to notice the neon glowing steeples that highlight the cityscape on the island. Being a Christian, although somewhat more lax in my attendance, I was curious to see what a Korean church was like. Having mentioned it to my friend Serena, she recommended that I come with her to mass on Sunday...so I did.



The church we attended was the Seogwipo Presbyterian Church, and it is the biggest church in the area with an average weekly attendance over 1,100. I am Catholic, but I figure god will forgive me, besides, I don't think I could have told the difference had I not caught a glimpse of an English pamphlet.

As we approached the steps, the Pastor had a wide grin on his face, obviously pleased by my attendance. I shook his hand in the Korean manner (clasping his arm with my other hand), and then proceeded into the church with my friend. She lead me up onto the second floor balcony, where there was less people, and was probably thinking that it would make me feel a bit more comfortable.



The balcony is usually populated with more children, as they can be loud and usually can't sit still anywhere for very long. Serena went over the program with me; prays and singing, seemed simple and familiar enough. Along with the choir there was an orchestral ensemble, with, from what I could tell, some woodwinds and stringed instruments. I couldn't see very many of them from where I was sitting, but when the mass started, you could see them up on the projection screen above the altar.



I guess being the biggest church in the area, and probably the most popular, they had several cameras setup to broadcast the mass, not only for inside the church, but for shut-ins at home. You can see almost everything that goes on up on the screen, making it quite easy to follow along with.

When the choir started singing, I was absolutely blown away by their talent and music...it was a bit of heaven...and a good incentive to go to church more often. I managed to record a few minutes on my camera, though I left the cover on over the lens as I thought it would be rude to hold a camera up during mass.



After listening to the choir sing and the pastor give his sermon, we headed down the stairs to the reception hall in the basement. To my surprise, another added bonus to going to church is a free meal after the eleven o'clock mass. Beef stew with a side of rice, kimchi, and spinach...delicious.



We finished our meals rather quickly, as neither of us had breakfast and were very hungry. We also got the chance to meet with the pastor...since Serena is leaving Jeju next week for another job in Seoul. After some quick introductions, he said a prayer for her and wished her luck in her new position. We grabbed a cup of coffee from the hall and decided it was time to head out. I took one last look at the church...

The Big(ger) City

I've been told that Jeju city is like many other Korean cities, but since I have not visited any other Korean city besides Seogwipo (which is more like a town, because its not as condensed), I don't really have anything to compare it with. That being said, my first leisurely experience in the big city on the island was fun and entertaining.

Normally it takes anywhere between 40 minutes and an hour to get to the city by car. If you go by bus, you can add another 15-20 minutes to the length of the trip, depending on which route you take. At around one o'clock in the afternoon, we (my fellow teacher Serena and I) took a bus from just outside downtown Seogwipo en route to Jeju city. The bus was of decent size, it wasn't very packed, but I don't think the engineers had foreigners in mind when they designed the legroom.



We took the mountain route, which I've been told is shorter, however, it has its drawbacks, it is a very windy and curvy road and not for those who easily get carsick. Luckily I am not as easily stirred, so after about a 50 minute ride or so, we arrived in the heart of Jeju city, just outside City Hall. The street (I'm not sure of its name) is the main street in the city and most things you want or need can be found within a stone's throw of it.



From here, we met up with our fellow colleagues and friends and proceeded towards the theatre to catch a matinee show. I was very excited for this, as I am an avid film/movie goer and have been wanting to see the new James Bond film, which was not playing in Seogwipo for some unknown reason (I was incredibly disappointed when I went to the Lotte Cinema 7 in Seogwipo and found that is wasn't playing).

We had an hour or so to kill in the theatre so we decided to waste a few hundred won on some arcade games. I must have spent 3,000 won or so on this one crane game...it was the worst. They make you believe that you can actually win a prize of stuffed animal proportions, but the crane claw doesn't actually have enough power to hold on to anything for longer than a millisecond. My friend/colleague Paul, the other native English speaker, and I played some sort of airship shooter game for a few minutes, but after being blown apart one too many times by enemy laser blasts I decided to give it a rest. The girls were doing much better in their endeavors, and managed to at least get their time's worth of won spent.



After finally winning some candy at this sort of rock/paper/scissors electronic light game (I had no idea how it really worked, but I won regardless), we decided to grab some concessions before the film. I was amazed at how much cheaper the popcorn combos were here, and so was Paul...



For only a fraction of the price it is back home, I finally felt like I was getting what I paid for in terms of some popcorn and a soda. The film I think was a bit too long, but overall it met 007 standards with enough explosions and hand-to-hand combat to satisfy any action film fan. I also saw a preview for the newest Studio Ghibli film (Hayao Miyazaki, famous animation filmmaker from Japan), which got me really excited. My new goal is to learn Hangul so that I can read the Korean subtitles when it comes out...most likely I'll just end up downloading it though.

Next on the agenda was to get some food, and since it was very cool out that day with the wind blowing hard, we thought that something spicy would help warm us up. The answer? Fire chicken...



When it comes to spicy food I consider myself to be at an intermediate level and even perhaps on the verge of an advanced level, but this was definitely a worthy test. It turns out that the rice cake noodles, that were served with the chicken, were hotter, but nonetheless, the chicken was still spicy and delicious. Once your tongue goes numb its really not so bad, I just wish there was milk served with the meal.



With a few glasses of Bakbunja (pronounced Bach-boon-ja, it is a wine made from wild berries and is very sweet) we were quite satisfied and it was time to move onto some more fun. We went out into the street and wandered around the shops looking for something that caught our eye.



With the girls leading the way I knew we would end up someplace interesting. What we walked into was a photo store/shop, not your regular kind of course, as nothing so far seems "regular" in Korea.

You know those booths in the mall that you used to go into with your date when you were like 14, well it was a store full of those, and it even provided a range of suitable hats. I was partial to the Donald Duck hat, but settled on some sort of dog/puppy hat and went into the booth. With everyone in a different and unique hat, we posed for the camera several times in similar childish fashion.

After you get your picture taken you can even decorate it in a kind of photo editing program using these touch screen pens. I didn't get the chance to add stars or hearts, or whatever the options were, but I was probably better off leaving it to the professionals. We printed out our fantastically designed photos and decided to continue on our adventure into the city (I'll upload some pictures when I can get the chance to scan them).



We opted for some more refreshments and walked into a nearby restaurant. What I thought was very interesting is that on every table in the restaurant, and something that is common in many Korean restaurants, are these ringer buttons. All you have to do is simply press the button and a waiter/waitress will quickly come to your table and get you whatever is that you ask of them. How awesome is that, no more waiting for someone to walk by and grab their attention!



Another interesting beverage we had that evening was some yogurt flavoured Soju. It doesn't sound like the most appetizing drink, but it reminded me of a Pina Colada, and was delicious. Its served in this very puzzling looking glass. The center is hollowed out and a few ice cubes are placed on the inside, to cool the Soju down quicker I suppose.



Our next stop was another arcade...and again I fell victim to the crane game. I think this one was even worse than the last one though. I decided to take out my frustrations on a shooting game which I did fairly well in. Paul complimented me on my skills and even referred to me as "Rambo" at one point. I very much doubted that, but thought that my skills were more than adequate to beat the game.

We left the arcade and passed by a shooting gallery game, Paul suggested I try my skill out on some actual targets. I started off the round with a fury hitting every target with only one shot, as I got into the third and fourth round however, my breathing was disrupting my aim and I got careless. I scored 2200 points, but apparently you need to score 2600 to even win anything, those things are always scaled way too high.

Moving on, we left the gallery and thought that some baseball would be fun. There was a batting cage nearby so we stopped to hit a few balls. Again I saw some people around this interesting soccer ball kicking game, who were trying their best to demolish this ball. I decided to give it a "kick"...

(Disclaimer: Paul swears quite a bit in this video)



After satisfying my ego by gaining the highest score of evening, we all ventured into a nearby place that had dart boards available. The bonus was that first time customers had the chance to win their meal/drinks by scoring with three darts each. We didn't do so well and thus had to pay for everything...too bad.

We played a few rounds of darts and then spent the rest of the night sharing stories. It was a good night of fun and games, but Serena and I had to be off back to our places in Seogwipo. The last bus leaves Jeju city at around 9:30 pm, but since it was much later than that, we had to grab a taxi. It wasn't that unreasonable either, it is usually between 20-25,000 won for a trip in a cab from one city to the other.

For my first time in the city, I was very happy at how everything turned out and hope that I'll be going back someday soon.

Winter Wonderland

As the winter rapidly approaches, the weather here on Jeju is getting cooler by the day. With cold enough temperatures, we've had our first snow on the island early last week. In a matter of days, Hallasan has gone from a bare mountain to being covered with snow. Even from my own balcony, I can see the change into the now newly formed frosted peak.



This week I had my second opportunity to trek up the volcano, and so three of us made plans to leave early Wednesday morning. Having already gone once before, I was somewhat more aware of what I needed to bring with me. I remembered how cold it was last time, so I thought some gloves and a toque would prove quite useful. It cost me about 37,000 won for both the hat and gloves, but I felt it was a worthwhile investment.

At about seven in the morning we made our way to Yeongsil trail. Sporting some stylish shades and five layers of clothing, I donned my hat and gloves and made my way through the woods at the beginning of the trail.



Despite the fact that my previous trip was only two weeks ago, the mountain trail has completely transformed into a winter wonderland. The ground is covered in snow and ice, and after only a few minutes of walking, my fellow climbers decide that they will put on their "icing", which are these spikes you can strap onto your shoes/boots.



They asked if I wanted any, but I turned down their offer believing my boots to be enough. They either thought I was brave or stupid...maybe both, but it turned out that I didn't need them.

Once we emerged from the forest, onto the steepest part of the climb, the path became a lot clearer and the spikes were no longer as necessary. The guide rope helped a lot and worked well enough to support us along the way.



In the weeks to come, when more snow falls on the mountain, the guide rope will become an integral part of the climb, as the steps will quickly disappear under the snow, forming almost a slide along the mountain.

Upon reaching the first lookout, I get my first view of the now frozen landscape. The waterfalls which were once streaming are now silent, the still mountainside is softly lit with a morning glow, and the plants have yet to awaken from their frozen slumber and embrace the sun...



I look to the sky and spot a cloud in the shape of an eagle...it is a good omen and something that is particularly important on Hallasan, home of the island's gods.

Serena, one of my co-workers, retells one of her own experiences with the mountain's mysticism. In a previous trip with some friends, she had stopped to pay homage to the mountain by building a small pile of rocks, something that is quite commonly done by hikers. It is also considered making a wish, but it fell down almost immediately after they had erected it. Later, on their way down the mountainside, it started to pour rain. Obviously, it was bad luck caused by the collapse of their wish pile.



As we get further up the trail we stop to have a snack. The traditional and obvious choice was oranges. If you look anywhere around the trail you can find orange peelings. Everyone loves the oranges here, even the birds. Serena attempts to get one of the crows nearby to catch a slice in mid-air. Turns out that these crows weren't quite as skilled as the ones she remembers...



We continue about our way and within a few minutes we reach the level part of the mountaintop, which quickly turns into a thick woods. I stop for a moment to look back...



Walking through the snow covered path we see a variety of plants and trees that look remarkably sublime in their frozen state. We stop along the way for a few pictures. By this time we are quite thirsty, and the river is only about a kilometer away. Instinctively, we quicken our pace...



The view once you exit the woods is simply astonishing, and any doubt that we wouldn't see much snow is now gone. It is a friendly reminder of home for me, but there is no time to stop now. The river is so close we can almost taste it...and we did.



The Witsoreum halfway station is just around the corner and we stop for some ramyon, which is a must if you ever climb the volcano. They came prepared with some egg rolls and kimchi; I handed out some apples that I brought. We make quick work of our ramyon noodles and the other food. Looking at my watch, it is about 10:30 and time to get going if we're going to keep our post-hike appointment.

Stopping for a few pictures around the 1700 m post (which is also a must and a tradition), we say goodbye to the mountain and make record time by arriving at the bottom of the trail in a mere 30 minutes.



After an adventurous four hour hike, we decide to head to a bathhouse and spa in downtown Seogwipo. I have never been in one before and I was quite nervous, but the other two reassured me that it wasn't anything that I would be uncomfortable with...unless I didn't like saunas.

We arrive at the bathhouse around noon and have about an hour's time to spend. For only 7,000 won, you can spend an afternoon in one of these places and I definitely recommend it. There is separate locker rooms which have an assortment of pools, tubs, saunas, and showers, all with various temperatures. My favourite was the massage pool, which is this shallow pool that has shower heads above. Once you press the button a stream pours down on you like a waterfall...extremely high pressured, but quite good for the back.

The sauna rooms are located in between the locker room floors. You wear these robes that look like a martial arts gi (uniform) and then enter via the stairs. There is several different sauna rooms: one with heated salts, another with some sort of plants, and individual coffin sized holes built in one of the side walls (designed for lying down in them). There is also an ice room for cooling off, but they were cleaning it out while we were there, so a dip in the cold bath would have to do.

After a relaxing hour, we left the bathhouse and headed home quickly to get ready for class. All I needed now was a nap...

To teach, or not to teach

It has occurred to me that although I have been telling a great deal about my time in Korea, I have yet to mention very much about what it is I am doing here. As I approach the end of my first month of teaching, I feel that I have gained more confidence since I started and a better understanding of the students here.

Generally speaking, my day starts at about 1:00 pm when I leave my house to bike to school. It isn't a very far bike ride and usually only takes me a few minutes to get there. I make sure to have all my class materials with me and do my board work before I start my first class.

I usually teach anywhere between two and ten students and each class usually runs about 50 minutes. My classroom isn't very big, but it works well enough for me.



Just opposite of my classroom is the lunch room, so its not very far for me to go for a coffee or a snack...probably one of the reasons I chose this classroom to begin with. The school itself takes up the entire second floor of the building and there is about eight classrooms. There is also a computer room where kids can go to do the computer component of their English work. Adjacent to this is the lobby and the main office, where our director Tom can usually be found.



Classes run from 1:40 to 6:45 pm, but I don't necessarily teach the full day. Every teacher usually gets one break period, sometimes two, but it is always different and depends on the day. For example, today I had a break period from 2:35 to 3:20 pm, but I also didn't have a scheduled class for the last period, 6:00 to 6:45 pm. So I only had to teach for about 3 hours and 20 minutes.

My students so far haven't been too bad, some better than others, but I'm beginning to know their faces and how to deal with situations when they arise...which is always bound to happen with a classroom full of kids.

The schedule I have right now is good, but since they change every month, I'll likely end up with something completely different next week. The only thing that will probably stay the same will be my students and of course my classroom...which I might add, also has a very nice view of the World Cup Stadium and surrounding area.



Yesterday was our first time for a meeting together to discuss the new schedule, so we decided to go out to a restaurant for a meal and some drinks. We were following one of the teachers, who is from Seogwipo, however, we were lead astray and got lost in the back roads of downtown Seogwipo.



After going down a few one-way streets, we eventually found our lost companion and the restaurant. It was an interesting experience, as we were lead into our own room with a table setup for us...and of course, like in Japan and many other Asian countries, the tables are only about a foot off the ground.



The meal was ribs...and they were absolutely fantastic. They are served a bit different from the way they are back home. There is a grill in the middle of table, which accommodates about four people per grill. You are given a plate with the ribs to cook yourself and there is an abundance of fixings to go with them, including: crab meat, a sesame oil/salt dipping, some sort of raw/rotten fish dipping (which I didn't try), a hot red bean paste, some crisp radish, a bowl of hot and sour salad (used as a topping on the ribs), some hot chili peppers, and a basket of fresh lettuce leaves.

The lettuce leaves are used much like taco or pita wraps. You place a few pieces of pork on the leaf, add some red bean paste, some hot and sour salad, and then fold it up and pop it in your mouth. It tastes just great.

Later we had some other noodles served to us in a giant salad bowl with ice. There is a spicy sauce on it and you mix it up with the pork and ice making a refreshingly cool yet hot noodle dish. Served with some Soju and beer its a perfect meal. Tom, my boss, is the guy giving the peace sign at the end of this clip.



After the meal we sat and discussed the new schedule for an hour or two. I didn't have much input, being the new teacher on staff, and spent most of the time talking with the secretary about her previous jobs and trip to China.

While I was sitting there, it reminded me of something that the other native English teacher, Paul, had told me...that we're not really here to teach the kids, but to play games with them while practicing their English skills.

It made me think that we're probably considered glorified babysitters by most, and that offended me. As much as it is our job to help the kids with their English skills, most consider that they learn more in the Korean-English classrooms, and I agree...but here's the thing, and I was speaking with my fellow teachers about this, there is a big difference from a student having perfect grammar skills and having the ability to even hold a simple English conversation.

It seems to be a big problem with most students. At a university level, Korean students will have superb English grammar skills, since its required for their entry exams, however, most will not be able to speak English.

My fellow teacher, Brian, who studied in Kentucky for several years, gave me a very good example...one day he saw someone running wearing a tee-shirt with the South Korean flag on it. He stopped him and asked him about it, and found out that the guy had taught in South Korea for several years. Brian was amazed at how well he spoke Korean and was surprised to find that it only took him about three years to reach almost perfect Korean proficiency. He asked him, "If I study English for three years, do you think that I will be able to speak as well as you speak Korean?" And he bluntly replied no.

As hard it may seem to learn Korean, and many other languages for that matter, English still remains one of the most difficult languages for anyone to learn. Its not impossible, but it certainly takes a lot of effort and time to learn. So even if my students aren't learning as much grammatically from me, I hope that I can help them to improve their speaking skills. Even the smallest amount will benefit them and make me feel like I have done something here.

English Encounter

Up until recently I have only seen foreigners in Jeju (on Mt. Halla and coming out of the theatres), but never had the chance to speak with one of them. This weekend was my first opportunity to actually meet another foreigner who was a native English speaker.

With some of our fellow teachers from the other schools around the island, we arranged to meet at one of the teachers' home in Seogwipo. We started out the evening with some dinner, and to my surprise and delight, it was pasta. Served up with sparkling champagne and some baguette bread, it was as fine a meal that I could dream of...



After getting to know one another a bit more, we decided to head out to downtown Seogwipo for some batting practice and games. There was this interesting soccer ball kicking game where the score was determined by how hard you could kick the ball...a good way to clear your frustations, or break your foot.



Spending a few hundred won I got my chance at bat. I wasn't very good to start out, but I blame the low balls the machine was throwing. There were a few different cages to choose from, each with various heights and speeds. For my first time, I think I showed a lot of improvement and it was definitely a lot of fun. For such a cheap price, it's worth considering coming back again and even possibly making it a part of my weekly schedule.

Our next stop was the bar for some refreshments...During conversation I mentioned that I had never tried Soju before and so they decided that now was as good as opportunity as any. Soju is a Korean alcoholic beverage made from rice and is clear in colour. It tastes somewhat like vodka and is generally around 20% in alcoholic content per bottle.



After some quick drinks we decided it was time to move onto some more fun activities, so we found the nearest pool hall. Billiards is just as popular in Korea as it is anywhere, but there are a few significant differences.

Our standard pool table, refered to as "pocket ball" here, turns out to be typically a women's game. The game played by most males looks absolutely ridiculous and I have no idea how to play it. There is no pockets and there is only four balls on the table at any given time, sometimes less. From what I can tell, it has something to do with striking one of the two cue balls and hitting one of the other two red balls. It looks like there is an abacuss behind each table, possible used to keep score.



My team didn't do very well and I would say that I'm probably to blame for our loss. In Korea if you scratch on your cue or sink the opponent's ball, you have to put one of your own balls back in play. So its a double whammy if you sink their ball by accident, something that I probably should have learned before we started. After billiards, we finished out the evening with some ice cream and then....karaoke.



I was brave enough to sing a few favourites...some Neil Young, John Lennon, and of course The Doors. We finished up the evening pretty early, in Korean terms at least. I didn't know this before, but apparently there is no close time for bars in Korea. So it is quite possible to stay out all night and into the next morning drinking, but I don't think I'll be doing that any time soon.

Today was a much less eventful day for me. I managed to find some live broadcast of HNIC (Hockey Night In Canada) and watched the Bruins take on the Habs. The late game was the Redwings taking on the Flames and was just as entertaining. The only Canadian team that won however, was the Senators in their 4-1 victory over the Rangers. I managed to do some laundry in the afternoon and then decided I would go check out the Mandarin Festival down by the stadium. Unfortunately I was too late, and by the time I arrived, they were already packing up...

A dose of English, a taste of home

Having been in Jeju two weeks now, I am beginning to settle into my place here and am trying to learn what I can to quickly adapt to my surroundings and the new culture...but that doesn't mean that I have been completely unaffected by the change. Although having done a lot of research before coming here, there are some things that you can't prepare for...

The biggest change for me since arriving has been learning to broaden my tastes and explore the local cuisine. I try to avoid most things that still have eyes or resemble some insectoid creature, which has worked out quite well so far.

One of my favourites is bulgogi (pronounced bool-go-gee), which is a delightful concoction of onions, mushrooms, potatoes, and the revered Jeju pork. Most Koreans find the pork here on Jeju to be particularly delicious, possibly because of the natural environment of the island which is void of factory or industrial pollution. The pigs here on Jeju are also different from their mainland counterparts as they are black pigs, covered in black hair.

Another delicious (not-so local, but still a Korean favourite) dish is curry, which in like most places...tastes like curry. Mixed in with veggies and chicken and served on a bed of rice, it is a familiar and refreshing taste for me.

After speaking with one of my fellow teachers (who speaks good English and is Korean), I learned that since moving from Kentucky to work in Korea ten years ago, he still has troubles with the food here...which doesn't bode well for me.

In spite of this, I am still going to try my best to taste new dishes when presented with the opportunity. He also mentioned a few of his favourites, which turned out to be two of my favourites: Pasta and Hawaiian pizza. So with this in mind we conspired, or rather discussed, with our fellow teachers to order some pizza for lunch this afternoon...



Another cultural specific problem that I, and many foreign teachers, have to deal with is the lack of English conversation/content you can find. Mostly I have been sticking with what I have easy access to; Television and the internet. There is plenty of English movies and TV shows on including, but not exclusive to: CSI (Las Vegas, Miami, and New York), House, Desperate Housewives, Prison Break, Law and Order, Supernatural and Without a Trace. There is really only two television stations that carry these programs and they are "OCN" and "Super Action". Occasionally you can catch the odd NHL/NBA/NFL game on one of the sports networks and I usually stop to watch whatever it is.



Recently I have discovered some local English programming: one from the radio, the other on television. Celebrating its 5th year of broadcast on Jeju island, Arirang Radio (whose name is taken from the most well known Korean folk song) has round the hour English commentary on local, national, and international content and despite the fact that it is the only English station on the island, it is quite good. I often tune-in in the mornings and it has been interesting learning about this new community that I am now a part of...it has definitely helped to give me a welcoming sense to the island.

The other local English programming is the KCTV English news, which broadcasts daily at 8:00 am, 7:30 pm, and 11:30 pm. It's mostly like any news you will find on TV, but it helps that it is in English and contains some information about local and national concerns. In fact, it informed me of the Jeju Documentary Film Festival that is taking place just a five minute bike ride away, underneath the Jeju World Cup Stadium. After hearing about this, I immediately asked one of the staff members at my school if they would call the theatres to find out the price and time of the films for me. They were gracious enough to do so, and I went to the first screening yesterday.

The first film of the festival was a behind the scenes look at five guys trying to make it in the stuntman/action movie business. Directed by Jeong Byeong-gil, "We Are Action Movie Stars" (2008) is filled with everything that a good film should contain: action, comedy, drama, and sorrow.


The cast includes a wide range of professions and talents: one is a failed boxer, another a dance instructor, one is an egotistic macho bad boy (whom I am assuming is only in the movie for his comedic qualities), another is a skilled martial artist (but very shy and proper), and the last is a somewhat slightly above average skilled fellow who has the strangest looking ears...

The all have their trials and tribulations in trying to make it big as action movie stars, and eventually find their own place in the complex and crowded world that is action movies. The one guy with strange ears gets an operation, the boxer breaks his wrists and shins in a mission impossiblesque wire routine, the bad boy remains the same, and they all form a bond in the end. From wire routines to horseback riding, to car crashes and sword fights, this film has it all in terms of stuntman roles and action.


I thought the film was a bit too long for a documentary, and even though it was completely in Korean with no subtitles, I still found I could connect with several scenes including one in which one of the stuntmen talks about his favourite actress, Winona Ryder, and even goes as far as re-enacting a scene from "Edward Scissorhands" (1990).

Tonight's film was a bit more easy to understand since it comprised mostly of shots with silence or filled with music (which was very well done in my opinion). Directed by Hwang Yoon, "One Day on the Road" (2006), is a film about the countless animal deaths caused by "roadkill" and raises concerns about these accidents and how they are reflected by the location of roads and their grids within South Korea.


It seems to be a problem no matter where you go, but the filmmakers are trying to understand how it is that so many of these animals are getting hit by cars and trucks within such a specific section of highway in South Korea. The filmmakers outline some of the major problems with animals deaths: night time driving, roadside blocks or obstructions, and the location of these roadways within the animals' natural habitats.


The smartest animals when it comes to crossing the road (or at least not getting hit by cars) are turtles and crows. When you think of a turtle, you very much doubt that it even has the capability to cross the road, but they can motor across pretty fast when they want or need to. Crows are among the smartest birds and can even tell the difference between traffic lights as to when its clear to swoop down and collect their treasure; whether that be a smashed nut or remnants of another creature (I recently saw this program on discovery channel about crows).

The filmmakers attempt a new method to discover why it is these animals are getting killed within this specific section of highway. They setup roadside traps and begin to tag animals with collars in order to discover their routes and the places they go along the highway. Which leads them to find that the roads are directly in the middle of their habitats, and so that is why so many of them are getting killed.


Overall the film was pretty enlightening for me into something that I never really considered before and that's always a good thing in my opinion. The Film Festival, which started yesterday, is taking place throughout this weekend, but it also happens to coincide with another festival: The Jeju Mandarin Festival.



As I was getting on my bike yesterday to go to the film I was surprised by the sudden explosion of fireworks...



When I asked around at school, one of my students was kind enough to point out that this weekend was also the Jeju Mandarin Festival, which also sounds like it would be worth checking out. The fireworks were part of the opening ceremonies for the festival and was taking place just outside the Jeju World Cup Stadium. So hopefully this weekend I'll get the chance to partake in some more local events and do myself a favour by trying to embrace the culture that is Jeju island.

Attack of the Oranges!

Jeju oranges are well known across the island and are quite refreshing at any point of the day. I knew before I arrived that the island was well known for its fruit, but I had no idea just how extensive this was.

I first noticed the groves of oranges on my ride back from Mt. Hallasan and I was quite surprised. All along the countryside and even within the city are groves upon groves of oranges. There will be no outbreak of scurvy that's for sure...



The Jeju mandarins which are a somewhat yellow-orange, start to bloom in the autumn, so I've "picked" (pardon my pun) a good time to come to the island to enjoy its fruits. I pretty much have oranges everyday: for breakfast, lunch, and snacks at school.



There is also many spots where you can actually go and pick your own, something which I'll have to look more into in the days ahead. I didn't notice it when I first got here, but even behind my apartment/house there is a grove. Maybe my next door neighbour will let me pick a few...

The Land of Instant Noodles

Looking back on my first week on jeju island I can say that I am grateful for how things have turned out so far. I've been welcomed by the people here at the school with open arms, and have tried my best to do what they ask of me; teach English.

Speaking with one of the teachers at the school here, I learned what a great responsibility has been placed upon me, the expectation of many parents to teach their kids English. All I can do is promise to do my best, but that certainly doesn't translate into me successfully getting every one of my students to progress in their English skills. Some students want to learn and they are usually the ones who advance quicker and retain more of the language, but then again they are many students who don't participate, don't do their homework, or simply don't care about being there.

It is these students whose parents come to ask, "Why hasn't my son/daughter improved from last year?" It's a difficult situation to be placed in, but one many have to deal with as English teachers none the less. I'm sure its the same for any kind of teaching, but as the only Native English Speaker at the school, I represent potential for more clients at the school, and as such, they (the school and parents) want someone who knows what they're doing.

On Wednesday I started my first outdoor adventure here on Jeju, and that was to climb Mt. Hallasan. Not many people can say they climbed a volcano, so I appreciate the opportunity. Starting out at the break of dawn, we left from Yeongsil trail and started up the mountain. Yeongsil is the shortest trail out of the four possible routes to the summit and is about a 10 km round trip.



It was very cold that morning and their was evidence of frost everywhere. I was beginning to think that I hadn't brought enough clothing...I really wanted my toque, but a cap would have to suffice. The trail starts out in the midst of a forest covered in ferns, but as you get to within clear view of the looming volcano, you start the real challenge of the trail.



What seems to be like a good walking pace slows to halt, as the hill seems to get exponentially steeper. I must say that I was impressed with my own endurance, as I was able to keep up with the lead of pack for the most part as we ascended. The first lookout stop is about 1300 m up and...it is...just remarkable.



It's only about 8:15 and the sun has yet to show its face...the shadow of the mountain stretches for miles and the combination of that with the lifting fog and morning clouds is enough to instill anyone with a sense of peace. The line between the sky and ocean is blurred, you can't tell where one begins and the other ends...all over the countryside are these smaller hills, called "Oreum", which were once volcanic areas and are now withered down to their present size.



After taking a few minutes to rest and take some video/pictures, our groups begins our trek once again. As we get further up the mountain, we are passed by others coming down; an exchange of hellos and we continue about our way. There weren't many, so I would say that we were among the first dozen or so to scale the volcano that morning.

There is another lookout at 1500 m and we stop again for some snacks and to take in the view. The sun is shining brightly on our faces now and no one is cold anymore...it is at this point that I'm glad I didn't bring more clothes...the steep hike and the sun were more than enough.

You can now see the shore and the buildings of Seogwipo city (pronounced Saw-Gee-Po) and are impressed at how high you actually are...from this view I would say that you can see about a third of the entire island. Despite the lack of fall colours (since it is too late in the season for there still to be leaves up here), the view is still spectacular.



Not far after the last lookout the path begins to level out and it winds its way through some woods. Once you emerge from the woods you're greeted with an open plain as far as you can see, from here its only about another km to the rest station. The trail is quite well made and maintained, as their is proper steps all the way up and a neat boardwalk along its level parts.



There is a river that many of the mountain's wildlife use a source, it cuts through the boardwalk and there is even a setup area for visitors to stop and have a drink. From there the rest station is only a hop, skip, and a jump away.



As we approach the station I can hear my stomach start to rumble and just as I'm about to break out my protein bar, Tom's family greets me with "ramyon", a bowl of instant noodles...and I couldn't be happier.

For a such a small and lean culture, they sure do eat a lot. We started out with about 20 pieces each of "kimbap", or a simple sushi, then some spicy "ramyon", served with some sort of yellow crunchy beat or radish as a side...and then some kimchi. For dessert, something that resembles a tomatoe but tastes like a somewhat more dry and dull apple. If you think that's weird, you should see a Korean pear...it looks like a granny smith apple on steroids...



It's approximately 10:30 am and I'm now coming to the realization that we probably aren't going to go the final 200m to the summit (although a 3km or so trek). We take some group pictures and then some around the 1700m marker and begin our descent.



Despite the fact that you're going downhill, its almost as tiring at this point after climbing all that way up. At this time there are dozens of people climbing the mountain as we make our way slowly down its steps...I get my first sighting of foreigners in Jeju. Before this point, I had been told that Jeju was one of the most foreign populated areas in South Korea, but I didn't believe it...well now I'm starting to. I must have passed more than 20 foreigners that were going up the mountain and although I was glad to see someone who was like me, it made me feel less special...and they weren't as friendly as some of the Korean hikers we passed.

Tom starts sprinting down the mountain and I lose sight of him, I stop at the first lookout for a final glimpse of the island and I think to myself, "Next time..."

11/11

I've been in Jeju a total of four days now and it has been quite the experience thus far. I spent most of my first weekend sleeping and trying to adjust to the time difference, which to be honest, wasn't that hard. However, I think that was in part due to the fact that I only slept a combined 2 hours through my flights to get here.



The 11th of November has a special importance in Korea, because of its resemblance to these chocolate candy sticks, much like "pocky" for those of you who know what that is. So 11/11 looks like a bunch of these chocolate sticks called "pepero", which are a kind of cookie wafer covered in various chocolates and designs. I wore my poppy today and tried my best to inform my students and fellow teachers of today's importance for North Americans, and most of them I think understood. I now have an abundance of chocolate snacks from gifts from the students, which is awesome. I hope I enjoy them (the candy and students), as much as they enjoy having me around. Just about every student that sees me shouts "Hi!" every time I walk or pass by. I try my best to smile and return the hellos, and hope that it won't become too much of a burden in the future.


Kim Jun-Ho, English name Tom, is my boss and director at the school and he is a very enthusiastic and kind individual. He has made me feel quite at home here on the island, despite the obvious cultural differences. Jeju is one of the most foreign populated areas in Korea because of its tourist attraction, which also makes it terrible for traffic on roads because of the lack of understanding road signs and signals by visitors. I have only seen about 1 traffic light thus far, and Korean drivers don't seem to follow it anyway.

I got my first taste of a Korean dish today, a soup with "Hamdu" which closely resembles wonton soup in appearance and flavour. Traditionally everything here is served with Kimchi, pickled spicy cabbage, cumcumber, or radish. I have tried quite a few varieties, some more spicy than others, but all of them delicious.

Tom and another teacher at the school here were kind enough to take me out to the local superstore, aptly named E-mart, which has just about everything I will ever need. I managed to buy quite a bit of groceries, totaling 95,000 won, and they should last me some time I hope. Jeju is known for its oranges so I thought it would be appropriate to try some and they are fantastic...but more like tangerines or mandarins then like the oranges from back home.

Tomorrow Tom is taking me up Mt. Hallasan, an inactive volcano and the tallest mountain in Korea. We leave at daybreak, which he says is 6 am, but from this morning with the sun waking me up, I would put it closer to 7. I'm really excited for that and I'll be sure to post some pictures and video soon.

Ready to Go!

Finally I am on my way to Korea and even though it's been a long and bumpy road with many obstacles to get to this stage, I feel I am ready for this next step in my life. I have had numerous problems with delays in paperwork and processing documents for my visa, but I got it in my hand now and will be flying out this Thursday morning.

I am feeling nervous but good. My anticipation is starting to build now that I only have hours to go before I leave. It's going to be a long flight (20+ Hours), but it'll be worth it when I am out and about meeting new people, learning new languages, and exploring everything that their country and culture has to offer.

Just two days ago we had the first snow of the season and it'll probably be the last snow I see for a long time. Something I'll definitely miss about Canada, but with all the new and exciting prospects on Jeju, I'm sure I'll be quite comforted. It's going to be a warm 22 degrees when I land and I can't wait!

Coming soon to an Internet near you...

I apologize for the lack of posts, but as I have yet to leave for Jeju or get any of my newly purchased equipment for my trip, I don't really have much to post besides some photos of the school. Check back in mid-late October, thanks!