Once in a Blue Moon

We have a special surprise coming this New Year's Eve as those in Europe, Africa, Asia and Australia will have the pleasure of seeing a partial eclipse of a Blue Moon.

Most years have twelve full moons which occur approximately monthly, but in addition to those twelve full lunar cycles, each calendar year contains an excess of roughly eleven days. The extra days accumulate, so that every two or three years (on average about every 2.7154 years[1]), there is an extra full moon. The extra moon is called a "blue moon." Different definitions place the "extra" moon at different times.

Hat tip to Neatorama. What's even more interesting is that this blue moon will change to red at the peak of the eclipse.

Since it is a partial eclipse, the moon will just brush past the darkest part of the Earth's shadow, never becoming totally immersed. It will, however, be deep enough into the shadow that shading and reddish color should be visible.

The penumbral eclipse will last just over four hours, starting around 2:15 am on January 1st here in South Korea, and will end around 6:30 am.

The umbral eeclipse, when it will turn partially red, will only last an hour from 3:50 am to 4:50 am on January 1st. Here are the numbers from the NASA eclipse website:

Penumbral = 4h11m03s 17:17 UT - 21:28 UT
Umbral = 0h59m58s 18:52 UT - 19:52 UT

Korea wishes you a merry Christmas

Spent the day playing Christmas games with the kids; they loved it. Santa hats, mittens and stockings were an integral part in the relay races I had setup.

A few kids were even singing along with the Christmas carol CD I was playing.

Here are a few kids showing their "Christmas spirit" on camera:



Not my kids, but most kids here seem to know a few Christmas carols which carry the same melody whether in Korean or English.

Merry Christmas everyone!

A little bit of snow

Friday we got quite the snow-scare here; at least from a Korean perspective. It started snowing hard early in the day and by late afternoon people were starting to get seriously worried about driving conditions.

We even got out of school a few minutes early, but by that time I think the damage had been done. Here's what it looked like outside Emart Friday evening:



When there is this much snow, most driver's won't even risk the drive unless they have chains on their tires. Cabs will travel on the side of the road going about 25 km/h and still feel like it's too fast.

Normally, by the next morning the snow is gone, however this time around we had a bit of a christmassy day with flurries coming down.



Sometimes it's something to smile about, especially when you see driver's overreacting, but there are still a lot of accidents for those traveling across the island.

Yesterday my co-worker Brian informed me that he had an accident on his way home to Jeju-si on Friday; the result was almost two million won worth of damage done to his car.

He didn't hit anybody, and he's alright besides a few aches and nerves, but it's still something to be taken seriously here.

It's not all sunshine and rainbows

So it's been really cold the last few days and as a result it's beginning to snow. I've been walking to work for about the last two weeks because it has just been too cold to even get on my scooter even with winter gloves, a winter coat and a face/neck warmer.

On the upside, we may have a white Christmas here in Jeju. Many people are already on vacation or will be soon, especially those working for EPIK.

Everyone gets Christmas and New Years off, and some, like me, have been awarded consecutive four-day weekends. My holiday plans revolve around attempting to make some eggnog and putting together a deliciously home-cooked Christmas dinner with friends.

It's going to be a nice break, but there will be moments of grief as some people are nearing their last days here on the island. Just yesterday my long-time co-teacher Brian informed me that he will be moving to Seoul in the New Year.

He's been a good friend and has taken care of any work related problems that I've had with extreme efficiency. He's not the most outgoing person, but he is a wise teacher with more than 10 years of experience. I don't know what I'll do without him.

With his departure, I now move into the position of being the veteran teacher at my hagwon. I'm certainly not the oldest teacher nor do I have the most experience, but I have been with my school longer than any of the remaining teachers.

It'll be interesting to see how things unfold over the next few weeks. Saying goodbye isn't something I want to get used to, but I know that it's part of being a teacher and a guest in a foreign land. Nothing lasts forever.

"No distance of place or lapse of time can lessen the friendship of those who are thoroughly persuaded of each other's worth." ~Robert Southey

The golden isle of Chagwido 차귀도

My friend Muggs leaves Jeju for the Philippines at the end of December and will be returning to the U.S. after his vacation there. These are his last couple of weeks here and he's trying to make the most of his time left.

In an effort to continue our island-hopping adventures, we chose a more remote location this time around: the isle of Chagwido.

Located off the Western shore of Jeju, near Gosan, Chagwido is an unpopulated island that has several trails to explore, which take no more than two hours to complete them all.

We first chartered a boat out of Gosan port for 10,000 won each (where all the fishing boats are). Be careful not to get confused with the submarine tour office, which is on the opposite side of the harbour and costs 45,000 per person.

We set out on the boat, thinking that we should have brought some drinks along.



There were plenty of people fishing off the rocks near the island, which is a very popular recreation for locals and visitors alike.



The captain dropped us off on a cemented walkway leading up to the shore of Chagwido. The path leading up onto the island is a little steep and muddy, so you have to watch your footing. Boots are recommended.



Once you traverse your way up, you emerge onto a large grassy plain. There are several paths, all leading off into different directions.

We decide to head towards the peak on the isle to get a better aerial view of the place.



The sun breaks through the clouds and shines down upon us, transforming the isle into a golden sea of reeds and grass.

It's looks simply astonishing. It mesmerises you with its movement as it rolls along with the wind.

I'm drawn to explore more, and I break off from the group towards a small forest.



Silent and calm, the forest provides a nice shelter from the wind and an interesting trail to venture.



After taking a few shots with my video camera, I head back towards the shore. Other members of our group start to trickle back as well, getting ready to board the boat once again.

I decide that it is an opportune time to leave behind a sign of our adventure. Naomi and I construct a familiar Canadian sight, an inukshuk.



With our journey completed, we all get back on the boat to Jeju.

As short and brief as it was, I really enjoyed it. It's the moments like those that offer you the time to reflect, to really appreciate everything around you and the people you're with.

새 섬 Saesom at Sunset

The last couple of weekends, extending back before I left for home, I've been adventuring out to offshore islets with a few friends as part of an island-hopping adventure series. One of the closest and most accessible is the island of Saesom, located near the Seogwipo harbour.

Recently, construction of a bridge to the island has been completed and people can now crossover and walk around on the island. They've been building this bridge for as long as I can remember, to finally see it completed and be able to explore the island is a treat.



When Brian and I got there it was incredibly windy, like it is most places on and around Jeju. From the bridge you can get an impressive view of the island and harbour around it.



The newly constructed trail is equally impressive. With several resting areas with benches, a boardwalk, gravel paths, and night-lighting placed all around the trail in a creative fashion.



The trail goes all around the outside of the island and is about a kilometre and a half in length. From the backside of the island you can see Munseom clearer and closer than anywhere else on land.



With Halla in the background, the bridge in the foreground, and the sun setting on the horizon, you couldn't ask for a better scene.



Brian and I stayed around to watch the sun go down before heading off for a drink and a rest at Rosemarine's, a popular drinking spot on the waterfront.



The trail is open until 10:00 pm, so even after dark you can go for a stroll. With the bridge and trail all lit up, it looks like it might be an even more enjoyable time to check it out.



It doesn't cost anything to explore Saesom, and if you're out that way I'd recommend checking out the nearby Cheonjiyeon falls or Oedolgae.

There and back again

It's been too long. I've been thinking about what to say about my reverse-culture shock, but my mind just keeps getting cluttered with too many thoughts for anything to really become clear and in-focus. So since I can't think of anything at the moment, I'll just write about what I do know now: my short, but sweet, visit home.

The first two weeks of November I had a chance to see my family for the first time in a year. I also got the opportunity to see some of my friends who were around home or in Ottawa at the time. Some were unexpected, but all very enjoyable encounters getting reacquainted with everyone.

Having already done the 20+ hour flight from Canada to here, I knew somewhat to expect flying back home. I spent a lot of my time reading on the plane and between flights, waiting for my connections. As opposed to my flight here when I watched just about every movie available on my personal monitor.

One book in particular I really enjoyed was The Zanzibar Chest, lent to me by my good friend Brian.

At once a modern and a historic love story The Zanzibar Chest is also an epic narrative charting the fates of men and women who interfered with, embraced and were ultimately transformed by twentieth-century Africa.

It was a very good read and really made me interested even more in traveling abroad and expanding my journalistic endeavors. Adventure, passion, life lessons, who wouldn't want to read it? Anything with that much emotion and intensity put into it is bound to be good.

My time in Canada was split between my two homes: Ottawa and Cape Breton. In Ottawa I finally got to see my sister who has been away for almost as long as I have. She's been off battling for the greater good in the distant country of Afghanistan.

I didn't actually get a chance to speak about it with her, but I figure when she wants to, she'll talk about it. I have the utmost respect for what she's done. I didn't want to bring back any possible bad sentiments during what short time I had with her.

While I was in town I was treated to some free tickets to an Ottawa Senators game by my brother-in-law Jamie, who won them in a raffle at work. Not only were they free, but they were six rows back from the ice. I was ecstatic.

Here is some nice rebound work by Senators' captain, Daniel Alfredsson, to tie it up in the first period:



Even better was Jason Spezza's first goal of the season in overtime to win the game.



My sister also prepared an amazing Thanksgiving/Christmas dinner while I was staying with her in Ottawa, which we aptly named "Thank Christ" or "Christgiving"...I'm still not sure which one sounds more appropriate. Like most people while they're on a short visit home, I stocked up on food, new clothes and filled the rest of my time doing nothing productive.

As for my time at my actual home, I got to meet some new additions to the family. Lucy, a cute black puppy, seen here with her new best friend (and my parents' other dog) Nika.



The other newest arrival was a kitten found by my brother, which he named Buttons. She doesn't look it, but she's a feisty and fierce little ball of fluff.



This kitten is so cute I had to throw in another video of it:



Everyone at home was filled with questions about how my time in Korea was so far and what I've got planned for the future, which is to be expected, but I think I enjoyed things more when I wasn't the focus of attention.

I forgot how much I missed the small things. Waking up to a frosty morning, grabbing a cup of tea and sitting, staring out the kitchen window to a lake that's so calm it could be a giant mirror.



That image will be imprinted onto my brain forever. Waking up day after day as I kid I never realized how beautiful it was, and how lucky I was to see it everyday. Just thinking about it now calms my mind and puts me into a state of tranquility.

Walking around the property with my mom I got to see the other changes that have taken place while I was away. My cousins' families are growing. They're building new homes, renovating cottages and making new roads around our shared ancestral land.

I look off into the woods where my cousin and I had once built a mighty log cabin, of which nothing remains. My mother recollects how everything used to look when she was small, recalling that there was plenty of farmland.

My grandmother has told me many times how there used to be nothing, not even trees, which until recently, used to engulf the property. Only now is the forest slowly starting to be cut away, as my extended family grows and the land is divided amongst us even more.

I have mixed feelings about it. On the one hand, my family is getting bigger and we'll all have somewhere we can be close and share our time together. On the other, I'm seeing my childhood realm of imagination being transformed into an increasingly busy suburb.

Having visited as many people as I could, and gotten all the supplies I'll need for the next year (I hope). I drove down to Wolfville to visit my younger sister, whom I enjoyed dinner with before my flight back to Seoul the next morning.

I was a little concerned when people told me about their reception of United Airlines, considering all my flights from Halifax to Seoul were with them, but was surprised to find that it wasn't so bad. I don't know if it was because I read more, or that I was taking gravol, or that it was because I was going back to Jeju, but I felt at ease on my journey back to Korea.

Touching down in Tokyo I was welcomed by a spectacular sunset:



Always a good sign in my opinion.

Flying back into Jeju the next morning I had a feeling of coming home. I was looking forward to sleeping in my own bed, seeing my friends again, eating Korean Food, and getting back to teaching.

"Where we love is home - home that our feet may leave, but not our hearts. "

-Oliver Wendell Holmes

Singin' on the coast

The popularity of the Jeju Open Mic has definitely been growing strong. The weekend before last was the latest one, and showed some promising new talent to the island. Located at HaeByun Concert, near 용두암 (Yongduam or "Dragon Head Rock), it's a comfortable venue with a scenic location right on the water.

Although it was slower getting started this time, it had an interesting mix of performances and music.

One of the first to take the stage offered a unique poem recital. Respectfully, everyone kept their voices down for him.



It was followed by a classic: "House Of The Rising Sun" by The Animals.



Another classic, Johnny Cash's "Ring of Fire," which was performed by yet another newcomer to the island.



There was some really good jazzy music which was accompanied by a trumpet.



They were all really good performances, and definitely something worth checking out next time 'round. The next scheduled Open Mic is on December 5th at 8:00 pm. You can find all the details on the facebook event here.

Here is a map for those a little confused on how to get there:

Recent Happenings

Having Monday off this week due to an island-wide hagwon strike was nice, but coming back to classes on Tuesday was a bit alarming when I discovered that a dozen or so students have gotten sick with H1N1, Swine Flu, at nearby schools in Sae-Seogwipo ("New Seogwipo" also referred to as "Shinsigaji," the area where I work).

The nearby elementary and middle schools have shown an increasing amount of cases of the sickness, and as a precaution, many parents are pulling their kids from classes just to be safe. Even one of my co-teachers was showing similar symptoms, even though he was told by doctors that it wasn't Swine Flu.

The fact that he's sick though just prompts parents to think that it might lead to their children getting sick and even catching Swine Flu, so a few pre-cautious parents have taken their kids out of our school for the time being.

My director has implemented regular body temperature checks via an ear thermometer (which he cleans in-between) as well as buying new microphones for the computer lab that will help keep germs from spreading. Along with a hand sanitizer dispenser and aerosol disinfectant cans for each class, I think he has made a good attempt to prevent the sickness from spreading.

In other news, I woke up Tuesday morning to find that my scooter was gone. Someone had stolen it, torn open the front grill, and cut the ignition starter out. I found it later down a road in a nearby orange grove.

I was upset to say the least, but I suppose I had it coming. I broke my lock a couple months back and have been just parking my scooter in my pension parking lot, which is easily visible from the road that connects down into the nearby village of Beophwan.

At first I thought it might have been just some school kids having a laugh, but the fact that they removed the starter and left the bike leads me to believe it's a nearby resident or farmer. There are plenty of people in the area with old scooters, so my guess is someone was needing a starter and mine was the perfect target.

It wasn't the best starter, in fact I've been having some troubles with it, but having to pay 125,000 won to get the grill and starter replaced isn't exactly my idea of an upgrade.

Anyway, my director gave me a big bag of Jeju mandarins that has helped cheered me up somewhat.

Fun in the Sun

Bright and early Saturday morning, the sun was shining down on the participants of the 2nd Jeju Furey Beach Volleyball tournament. With a scheduled start time of 8:00 am, many were feeling lethargic; myself included.

Not long after the team captains' meeting had concluded, teams began to gather around the courts, preparing for a day of battle.

Our team, Thunderbots (an amalgamation of the two greatest groups of cartoon heroes from the 1980's, Thundercats and the Autobots) comprised of several spirited and unique indivduals:


Kristin Mitchell, a newcomer to the island and first-time volleyball player. What she lacked in experience she made up for in enthusiasm.


Brian Miller, long-time veteran of Jeju and an Obama fanatic. He strikes fear into the heart of his enemies with his serve, shouting from the depths of his soul, "OBAMA!!!!"


Matthew Poll, a.k.a "Speed Racer," a.k.a "Capt. Faclon," a.k.a "Birdman." A mild man and teacher by day, wild and whimsical beer magician by night. He searches the land, sea and air for rare feathered creatures. He is guided by the way of the blue rock thrush.


Bridget Best, a Jeju-Northsider, measures up to her own name as her actions out on the court speak for herself. She plays with a fierce passion that any team would be lucky to have.


Niamh Nicholas, an Irish fighter with a heart of gold. After only a few practice sessions she has found her footing in the game and can hold her own.


Lastly, myself, team captain and spiritual motivator. An average-at-best player in the court with some hustle and a serve that falls from the sky like Thor's hammer, smiting our enemies.

Unfortunately, for all the spirit and motivation we had, we didn't possess the skills to go very far in the tournament. We didn't end up in last, but we weren't far from it.

Saturday was a long day with a few short-lived victories. Thankfully, there was pizza and beer to sooth our egos. The Jeju gods must have been smiling, as the weather turned out to be perfect again with another brilliant sunset.



Nathan would have been proud of the way everyone played. The tournaments were a big success and a great time for everyone involved. Hopefully it'll be a regular occurrence.

The season of colours

Today was the first day I woke up and it actually felt like fall. Sure it was sunny out and warm, but something in the air felt different, that old familiar feeling of a change in seasons.

Last weekend I got my first glimpse of the changing leaves up on Hallasan; this week I'm breaking out my heavy fall coat. Almost all the oranges in the fields are nearly ripe for picking, and in about another month the Jeju Orange Festival will kick off.


While some people may complain that it's getting too cold, or that there isn't going to be anything to do now that the weather is declining, I'm looking forward to the change of pace. It feels a lot like when I first got here, a sensation I have fond memories of.

On my drive into work today, everything felt just slightly different. I noticed a building which I've never seen before, but that has always been there, leaves that are starting to clutter the sides of my street and people dressing in more layers.

In defiance of the changing seasons, there is an upcoming beach volleyball tournament this weekend at Iho beach in Jeju-si. This will be the second tournament held in memory of Nathan Furey, with proceeds going to his family.

Having played in the first tournament, I knew how much fun it was, so I decided with a few friends to put together another team. It's probably the last beach event in a while, so I hope it'll be a good one.

The most beautiful sunrise on Jeju

This past weekend was 추석 (Chuseok), the somewhat equivalent of Thanksgiving in Korea. So while many Koreans were off paying respect to the spirits of their ancestors, a few friends and myself decided to go for ambitious sunrise hike up Seongpanak, Mt. Halla's longest trail.

We started out at about 2:30 am on Saturday morning, trying to time it so that we reached the peak just before sunrise. It was dark out, but a full moon was shining brightly in the sky.



I had picked up a head lamp the night before, thinking that it would come in handy for trekking through the woods in darkness. Muggs, Rob, Marian and myself all had some source of light with us, making it easier to avoid twisting our ankles on the rocks.

We were making good time as we reached the first rest stop only after an hour. As we neared the more challenging part of the course, Muggs spotted a deer hiding in the bushes. We had a good opportunity to check it out, as it was blinded by our head lamps while we stared at it.

As the trail started to climb higher and higher, we could start to see the first light on the horizon behind us.



There was time enough to snap a few quick pictures before continuing our hike; we had to press on if we were going to make it to the top before the sun came up.



We came upon the second rest stop and thought to take a quick break indoors before continuing, but after some inspection, we discovered that there was someone watching TV inside the small outlet. Rather than alarm him, we decided to just cuddle up and have a snack on a nearby bench.

At this point comes the most difficult part of the trail. It gets progressively steeper and the protection the trees provide from the wind quickly disappears. Normally, if you reach this point past 12:30 pm, they won't let you continue to the summit, because you won't reach the bottom of the trail until after dark. Thankfully, we didn't have to deal with that problem as we were the only ones on the trail.

Around 9.6 km in length, Seongpanak takes on average four hours to climb, plus an additional four hours to descend. Chances are though that you'll be a lot more tired coming down, so that you'll want to plan ahead so you have enough time to do both.



With only about another 150m to climb before reaching the 1,950m summit, we were witness to a breathtaking view over the tree-line. The sun was slowly lighting up the sky, creating a rainbow across the horizon.



Oreums came to life, as their tips pierced through the haze and clouds. Our small city of Seogwipo was a sprinkle of lights on the coast.

The wind picked up, my legs started to seize and despite how tired I was, all I could think about was how perfect this moment was.

The sky turned the ground red and it reminded somehow of Mount Doom. I could picture Frodo trudging alongside me, exhaustingly trying to reach the crater to destroy the one ring.

While my goal wasn't as crucial, I was nonetheless motivated to keep going and reach the top before the sun did.

As I scaled the final 50m, I started to hear voices. At first I thought the wind was playing tricks with me, but starring harshly at the summit, I saw something moving:



Over 50 soldiers dressed in camouflage were cheering and posing for pictures. It was as if we had just finished a marathon and they were cheering us on. I think they were as surprised to see us and we were to see them, but it was such a happy moment, filled with smiles and an exchange of greetings.



We took a moment to pose for pictures as we all stood there in the freezing winds; everyone seemed to come together in the spirit of the moment, it felt fantastic.



The sun began to creep up over the horizon:



Taking it all in, it was worth every ounce of pain to get to see such a sight; few on the island have done it, but those who have, know the rewards of such a journey.

It's one of those moments that you think, "This is what it's all about."



After spending a good 30 minutes at the summit, my hands were beginning to go numb. The soldiers had already started their descent and it was time to start ours.



The trail on the way down looked completely different in the light; I could actually see what we were walking through. Not that there is much to see because the trees block most of the view, but it was still interesting to see it for the first time.



Having walked for almost 7 hours, the appeal of the trail was starting to wear off...fast. We were feeling quite fatigued when we were met by a group of kind strangers who offered us nature's finest: fruit and soju.


With a little help from my ipod and a cup of ramyeon noodles, I made my way back to the bottom in one piece.

We completed the journey in just under 9 hours. The second half was definitely longer, we were just about to collapse by the time we finished.

With the sun beating down on us, we decided rather than try to go straight to sleep, and mess up any chance of sleeping later in the night, that we would just relax on the beach.

In all, it was probably one of my most memorable moments here on Jeju. Not since New Year's have I had such an enlightening and embracing experience.

O'Sulloc green tea

Jeju has a couple large tea plantations scattered around the southern half of the island. They're nothing compared to those in China or Japan, but if you're a fan of green tea or green tea products, then you might want to check them out sometime.

The most popular and tourist friendly is O'Sulloc, located just west of Donggwang-ri around route 1116 or just off route 95 if you're coming from Jeju-si; you can't miss the signs.



O'Sulloc is a company based out of Seoul that bought land on Jeju, and has several outlet stores and cafes within the city.

At the plantation on Jeju is a newly renovated museum, which has an interesting exhibition filled with Korean artist tea-ware along with others collected from around the world. Together with a souvenir shop and a cafe, it makes for a quaint place to sit and enjoy some green tea.



As you can see from the video, it's quite popular with tourists; so expect it to be busy during the summer season. They have a variety of tea rolled cakes, green tea lattes, earl grey tea cookies, green tea ice cream and of course, just regular green tea. Prices from 4,000 won to 8,000 won for individual items.


I decided to go with the ice cream, which was delicious.



Just past the museum are fields and fields of green tea; the weather when I went was nice enough for a pleasant stroll.



With rows upon rows of lustrous green leaves and a looming Sanbangsan in the background, it makes for an exquisite scene.



I'm not exactly sure how they harvest it all, or what the process is from growing it to drinking it in your cup, but I imagine there are guided tours available if you check with the museum reception at the entrance, or at the very least, a brochure.

There is no entrance fee to the museum or to walk around the fields, so feel free to drop by anytime during the day.

So long summer

As the days get shorter and the nights get cooler, the remnants of summer are quickly fading away. It's been a rather enjoyable summer, however rainy and cloudy it has been at times, but I'm looking forward to the Fall.

I've just resigned my contract in Jeju for another year, so I'll have another opportunity to enjoy the summer here again. I'll be traveling for the first two weeks of November back to Canada, which will be a nice break from my regular schedule.

With the arrival of fall, comes the season of oranges. All around my apartment are fields of them, and already I can start to see the change from the summer green sprouts to the blossoming balls of orange and green.



Where at one time I would leave my school and there would still be enough light to go swimming, now has been replaced by the darkness.

So here's a little something to remember those beautiful summer sunsets:



So long summer, I'll see you next year.

Some of my favourite beaches

Having spent as much time as I could on the beaches this summer, and after taking a few tours around the island, I have seen my share of fair beaches that Jeju has to offer. Here are a few of my favourite spots:

Jungmun Beach


Photo by Brian Miller

Probably one of the most popular spots for tourists and locals, Jungmun beach is an incredibly accessible beach located in the heart of the tourist district. There is lots of room and it's within distance of some great places to eat, such as my beloved Gecko's.

It's probably one of the best summer spots for getting some surf, and in the months of May, June and September, it is a lot more peaceful and comfortable. The perfect spot for an early morning swim, or a lazy afternoon of resting and reading. It has become the recent annual host of the Jeju Surf and Rock Festival.

Hyeopjae Beach



Another popular spot, Hyeopjae Beach is one of the most picturesque locations on all of the island. Bright white sands, brilliant shades of blues and an offshore islet against the backdrop of the sky and ocean. If it weren't completely jam-packed with people, it would probably be the best spot on the island. There isn't much waves and the water isn't very deep because of the sand bar that goes out for half a kilometre or so, but it's stunning to look at.

Try venturing away from the main beach and you'll find a more quieter relaxed spot just around the bend, towards Geumneung Beach.

Udo Beach


A lot more reclusive than the previous beaches, Udo island has a beach on its far side that is the perfect spot to enjoy a sunny afternoon. Although harder to get to, Udo beach is worth the trip, especially since there are many other incredible breathtaking views available on the small island.

I recommend organizing a camping trip or renting a 민박 (minbak, a room with a kind of 'bed and breakfast' style) while you're there, because you'll want to spend more than just the one afternoon there after making the trip out.

Gimnyeong Beach



Located on the Northeast side of Jeju, Gimnyeong beach is up there for one of the best beaches. Like Hyeopjae, it is incredibly beautiful, but it has the benefit of being a lot less crowded. I camped out there a few weeks ago after some sailing in the day, and it was absolutely serene.



Bring a book, a snorkel and mask, as well as something to snack on and you'll have yourself a great time. It's within a five minute walk to a bus station that will take you to either Seogwipo or Jeju-si.



It's hasn't been the sunniest summer, with all the days of rain we've gotten in July and August, but the days that have been clear were something to remember. It's important to take full advantage of such occasions, as you may never get a chance like that again. So much can be said about having good weather, good company and a good time.

Japanese Excursion Day 2: Samurai and Sushi (二条城 Nijō-jō, 回転寿司 kaiten-zushi)

The entrance to Nijo Castle is through Higashi-Ōte-mon (Great Eastern Gate), which is today, the main entrance to the UNESCO World Heritage Site.

After paying the 600 yen fee, you're granted access to the castle grounds, which include both Ninomaru and Honmaru palace, several gardens, some cherry and plum tree groves, as well as a souvenir gift shop.



Here is what Ninomaru palace looks like from the outside, near the public entrance to the palace. Tours and groups enter through a different area, they seemed pretty adamant on making sure you use the proper entrance.



They don't let you take any pictures of video inside of the palace, to preserve the artworks on the ceiling and walls, so it's hard to get an idea of what this place actually looks like. Here is a map of Ninomaru palace, the path just follows along the outside of the chambers and circles back around the other side.

An interesting feature about both palaces are the nightingale floors or uguisubari (鴬張り). The floors mimic the chirping sound of a bird when you walk on them. They were designed so that the nails in the floor rub against a clamp, creating a noise, and thereby alarming nearby people of approaching individuals.

Definitely a good way to stop ninja assassins from coming into your bedroom in killing you in the middle of the night. You can hear what is sounds like here.


Here is a picture of The Ōhiroma (Great Hall). It is the central core of the Ninomaru Palace and consists of four chambers:


Just try to imagine no people in the room, the walls a dark stained brown, and you pretty much get the idea of what it looks like nowadays. The artwork is still dimly visible on the walls, which remains completely withdrawn from any natural or artificial lighting.

All the outer walls of the palace are movable, so at one point in time they would just slide them all open for light; I can see torches and candles being a problem in a palace made almost entirely of wood.

I managed to get a quick video outside the Shiroshoin, the Shogun's chambers. He used the area as both his living room and bedroom; kind of like my own place, except I don't get served dinner by beautiful women. Not yet anyway.



Next is a video of Kara-mon, the old entrance to Nijo:



After taking a stroll around Ninomaru's garden, you come upon the Honmaru bridge and moat. One of the most scenic locales inside the castle grounds.



Nearby is Seiryu-en Garden, constructed in 1965, it has over 800 stones brought in from an early Edo-period villa as well as 300 some special stones collected from all across Japan.

One part is a large pond in traditional Japanese style, and the other a spacious lawn in Western style; particularly popular spot for large public tea parties and official receptions.



After picking up some beautifully hand-drawn postcards from the souvenir shop, it was time to leave.

Just a block down from the castle is this quaint small swords shop. Chock-full of katanas, I couldn't help but stop in to see if there was something I could afford.

Spotted some sweet shuriken that I couldn't turn down.



Having not eaten since early in the morning before the parade, I was in the mood for a good meal.

Checked out my Lonely Planet guide book and was led to a nearby conveyor belt sushi (回転寿司 kaiten-zushi) restaurant.



At this place all plates were 120 yen, but at most restaurants, including one I went to recently in Seoul, sushi is priced according to the color of the plate the sushi is on. Gold is usually the most expensive, followed by red, blue and green, for the most part.

You get as much miso soup and green tea as you can drink as well as all the wasabi and soya sauce you will need. It doesn't take long to build up a stack of plates. The sushi there was decent, but well worth it for the price.

Musashi Sushi is located right near the Sanjo covered shopping arcade, just a block up from the northern entrance on Kawaramachi-dori (street).

Jeju Chilmeori Shrine Shaman Performance 제주도 굿

For anyone who has ever been interested in seeing a traditional shaman festival, Jeju is one of the few places you can still see one. The weekend before last was a special performance, held at 관덕정 (Gwandeokjeong) in Jeju City.

Normally there are two "guts" or 굿 (pronounced goo-t) held in February, but because the Jeju Special Self-Governing Province is trying to register the Jeju Chilmeori shrine shaman performance as a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage property, they arranged to have it held earlier in order to qualify for status this coming year.

The performance has already been designated as the 71st major intangible cultural asset since 1980 in Korea. The gods of Chilmeoridan Shrine are Dowonsugamchaljibangkwan and Yowhangheasinbuin. As a couple, "Dowon" controls birth and death, while his wife, "Yowhang," protects woman divers and their living.

The procedure of the "gut" is to call all the gods to the table spread with ritual food. The shaman explains the creation of heaven and earth, and Jeju island's geography and history. Then he explains the performance's date, place, reason to the gods, asking them to eat the offerings on the table.



The shaman calls the two gods, asking them to be seated on the table. Next is a prayer for the fishermen and woman diver's safety and richness in their living. Finally, warding off the entire village's evil and sending the gods back.



This particular "gut" was only about an hour and a half, but was followed by another:



Both Saturday and Sunday were filled with shaman rituals. I only stayed for the one on Saturday, but I'm definitely interested in seeing it again when they hold it again in February.

Japanese Excursion Day 2: 山鉾巡行 Yamaboko Junkō

The main event, or so to speak, of the Gion Matsuri is the Yamaboko Junkō, a parade of floats through the streets of Kyoto. Here is a little history about it:

The floats in the Yoiyama Parade are divided into two groups, Hoko and Yama, and are collectively called Yamaboko (or Yamahoko). There are 9 of the larger Hoko (long pole or halberd) which represent the 66 spears used in the original purification ritual, and 23 of the smaller Yama which carry life-size figures of famous and important people.

All the floats are decorated with beautiful tapestries both from Nishijin (the finest in all of Japan) and imported from all over the world. In addition to the art, there are many traditional musicians and artists sitting in the floats.

Each year the families that maintain the floats draw lots at a special meeting to determine what order they will take in the festival. These lots are issued at a special ceremony before the parade, during which the Mayor of Kyoto dons the robes of a magister.

On the Naginata Hoko is the chigo, a young boy in Shinto robes and crowned by a golden phoenix, chosen from among the Kyoto merchant families as the deity's sacred page. After weeks of special purification ceremonies, during which he lives isolated from contaminating influences such as the presence of women, he is carried atop the float as he is not permitted to touch the ground. The boy must cut a sacred rope (shimenawa) with a single stroke to begin the matsuri.

Got up around 8:00 am so that I could get to the parade route as the floats were starting. Stopped off at a charming little cafe for a light breakfast. For 500 円 (yen) I got a sandwich croissant with an egg and a cup of coffee.

The next stop was to find a spot to watch the Gion Matsuri float parade through the streets. The madness at kawarmachi-doji intersection was unbelievable.

Each year, the "Naginata Boko" float leads the parade (the other floats draw lots for their position in the procession). It is the only float that features a child.

The procession starts with the cutting of the rope. High up on the front of the float is a "Naginata" (long sword) that was made by Munechika (today a replica is used). The sword is swept from side to side as the float moves forward, sweeping away disease and evil. The tip of the sword is never pointed towards Yasaka Shrine or Ghosho.

The craziest thing is watching these guys turn this giant wooden float, it's probably the coolest thing of the parade. The only way for these floats to turn is to be slowly pulled across bamboo so that it slides. I tried to look for a better spot to film it, but at this point there was so many people crowded around the intersection it took about 10 minutes to walk 10 feet; I felt like I was in a sardine can.

Thankfully, after squeezing through the crowd, I found an opening down a back alley that led away from the parade route. My plan was to take the back roads and come out ahead of the parade, where I could have some time to find a good spot and setup my camera to watch it pass me by. I bought a peach flavoured shaved ice while I waited for the floats to catch up.



Naginata Boko making its appearance once again:



The second float in this year's parade was the Moso Yama:

This float depicts the legend of "moso," one of the Chinese "Four-and-twenty Paragons of Filial Piety." In this legend, he searches in the snow for bamboo shoots, which are a favorite food of his mother. At last, he digs up some shoots and please his mother. The train of the float is adorned by a black and white calligraphy design that was painted by Seiho Takeuchi.

Abura Tenjin Yama, a float that enshrines a deity dedicated to the Kazahaya family, is adorned with branches of red plum blossoms. Following that is Hosho Yama, a float that depicts the love story of Yasumasa Hirari, an 11th century Japanese warrior, and his lover, Shikibu Izumi. It is said that followers are able to receive a lucky charm for happiness in marriage.



I think my favourite floats are the "Boko" or individually referred to as "Hoko." They just look more impressive, and as opposed to the "Yama" floats, they weigh on average 12 tons instead of 1.2 to 1.5 tons than that of the Yama style. The group of men that have to pull those things along are equally impressive, especially when it comes to the guile of turning those things 90 degrees at the intersections of the route.

The Kanko Boko was the second "Hoko" float in the parade:

It tells the tale of a lord called "Mashokun" from the Warring States period (476-221 BCE) in China. After fleeing from the Shin, Mashokun reached the Kanko Barrier. As the barrier would only be opened at the sound of the crow of the first cock of the morning, Mashokun had one of his followers mimic the crow of the cock.

The plan worked beautifully, as the real cock joined in the crowing, so the barrier opened and Mashokun was able to pass through. The front of the float has been designated as an important cultural treasure.

Taishi Yama was next in the procession. "Taishi" means "Prince" in Japanese. The figure on the float is Prince Shotoku, and the float depicts the legendary tale of when he went into the woods in search of high quality materials for the Tennoji Temple.

There, he met an old man who told him about a great sacred cedar tree. He used the cedar to build the Rokkakudo. All the other floats hold sacred pines, while a cedar tree stands atop the Taishi Yama float.



Next up is the Shijokasa Boko, Urade Yama, and Niwatori Boko. The Shijokasa was revived and restored to the parade in 1985 after a 117-year absence. The float is a recreation of one of the original halberd types that date back to the times since the Onin War (1467-77 CE).

The Urade Yama depics the Nihon Shoki (Chronicles of Japan) tale of the Empress Jingu Kogo, who goes fishing in the Tamajima River for good luck in battle. It is said that if the float is positioned early in the procession, the women who bear children that year will have an easy delivery.

Niwatori Boko depicts a Chinese story set in the 16th Century, when peace reigned and therefore, the drum that was used in disputes ceased to toll. The drapes that decorate the sides of the float display a 16th Century Belgian painting of a Trojan prince being separated from his wife and children, an important cultural asset.



Next there was this crazy praying mantis float, which I can find no information on, but the crowd seemed to enjoy it a lot. It looked like there was just a mechanical lever moving it randomly, but it could have been someone around the float motioning it.



That last float that I stayed around for was the Tsuki Boko, a float filled with precious art works such as the floral design on the ceiling, carved gables, and a medallion carpet at the front of the float which was made in India in the 17th century (today's is a replica).



It was around noon, and I still had so much to see, so I packed up my camera and walked to the nearby 二条城 Nijō Castle.

Chujado 추자도

After finishing my three day trip round the coast of Jeju, Muggs, Naomi and myself decided to check out the nearby island of Chujado 추자도.

When we arrived at the Jeju ferry terminal down on the Jeju-si harbour front, we discovered that the price to take a van across was about 130,000 won, and that's not including a driver's fee (4,500 won) and two tickets for passengers (8,000 won each).

Having spoken with some others about the means of transportation on the island, it seemed like a van was a necessity to really explore the island in the time we had with all the camping supplies we brought. So we split the fare and boarded the ferry bound for the small island.

Chujado is actually a small group of some 40 islets located about two hours away by ferry (an hour by the speedier catamaran, 10,000 per ticket).

Most inhabitants live on the two larger islands, which are connected via bridge. I had heard that the bridge collapsed a year or two ago and several people were killed; it was rebuilt, and from my experience, it seems alright now.


What's even harder to believe is that there is a foreign teacher working on the island. It's nice there, don't get me wrong, but there is no way I'd want to live there as the only native English speaking person. Being able to speak Korean there is a must, there is just no way to get around it.

There are a few sights there, such as a lighthouse atop the higher inland ground, a couple shrines and a tomb. There are a few marts and restaurants around the main town, located on the second island.


Our ride to the island was exceptionally smooth, we had ourselves a few cans of beer and played some cards. We got into port about 3:30 pm:



Driving around the island with a van was like trying to fit a cow into a dog's house; we were really off-roadin' it. Muggs handled himself at the wheel like a pro. There is no way I would ever attempt something like that myself.

After taking a tour of both islands along the road, we stopped at Kingmart for some BBQ supplies. We had found a nice quiet pebble beach on the Eastern side of the first island, the cove where number five is on the map:


Photo by Muggs Alexander

We setup our tents, collected some drift wood and began our dinner preparations.

Early Sunday morning we took the ferry back to Jeju, although this time we weren't so lucky with the waves; people left and right were throwing up, even I was starting to feel upset after two hours of roller coaster riding.

It was a unique adventure, but if I came back again I would probably bring my scooter along with some fishing gear and possibly a snorkel with some fins. There just isn't enough land there to do much else than take a few pictures and read a book.

Photo and map provided by Jim Saunders

The 5th Jeju Peace Forum 제5회 제주평화포럼

Back around the beginning of August, I attended the 5th Jeju Peace Forum at the Haevichi Hotel and Resort in Pyoseon. I was covering the Peace Forum for the Jeju Weekly, and wrote a couple of articles about it. The first, about its history and what this forum was expected to include, is found here.

I got to the hotel around 9:00 am on Wednesday, the second day of the forum. Scheduled was the opening keynote speech of the forum by South Korean Prime Minister Han Seung-soo, however, because of the winds, his flight was unable to make it time, so his speech was postponed 'til later in the afternoon.

In lieu of the opening speech, the forum went right into the first plenary session: the World Leaders' Session, entitled "Toward the 21st Century of Mutual Benefit and Common Prosperity." Speakers were former South Korean Prime Minister Lee Hong-Koo and former Australian Prime Minister John Howard with Park Jin residing as Chair.

I was particularly excited about hearing from John Howard, who was the 25th Prime Minister of Australia and was in office from 1996 to 2007. He is the second-longest serving Australian Prime Minister. Here is part of his speech from the plenary session:



Here is Park Jin discussing with the two speakers about the recent visit by former U.S. President Clinton to North Korea to negotiate the release of the two American journalists, Laura Ling and Euna Lee, captured by North Korean soldiers when they "mistakingly" crossed over the Chinese border into North Korean territory.



On Thursday, the second keynote speech was delivered by United Nations Secretary General Ban Ki-moon. Despite the little mix-up with security passes, the Jeju Weekly staff finally managed to get in before the end of his speech.

It was a little frustrating, but worth it when we got inside. His speech, together with South Korean Prime Minister Han Seung-soo's, was well spoken, stressing the need for more co-operation and union between not only East Asia, but the world as a whole. You can get the full details about their speeches from my second article, published in the most recent issue of Jeju Weekly.

Another note of interest during the forum was seeing Russian billionaire Oleg Deripaska. I recently had watched a documentary about him on the BBC, how he built up his empire from almost nothing and how he lost billions because of the global financial crisis.



He is certainly not the most inspiring or exciting person to hear a speech from, but his life story is very compelling and worth reading about.

Overall, I was really excited about going to the forum and having a chance to experience such an event, especially here on Jeju.

I'se the b'y that sails her

As usual, the first week of every month is a hectic time for me: correcting tests, marking report sheets and making a new class schedule, but coupled with the fact that it's the last days of summer, I have been otherwise neglecting my blogging duties. This month I hope to catch everyone up to speed on what has been going on this summer.

The last two weeks, I've had the pleasure of going sailing at the Gimnyeong Yacht Club, with club member Jerry Cotter, an Irish priest who has been in Korea for over 54 years. He recently did an interview with Jeju Weekly writer Carey Steward. You can read it here.

I was on a road trip around the coast of Jeju island and had time to go out sailing. So I made it a priority to call Jerry, whose number I got through a mutual friend, and arranged to go out the Friday before last.

I met up with Jerry and former club member, Ralf Deutsch, who is also as interesting a character here on Jeju. Ralf owns and operates Big Blue 33, an English friendly dive shop in Seogwipo. He also did an interview with Jeju Weekly, which you can find here.

So preparing our catamaran "Eskimo" at 10:30 in the morning, we made our way slowly out of the harbour on motor power; hoisting the main sail and jib, we were on our way.

I hadn't been sailing for almost two years now and was really starting to miss the relaxing experience that comes from it. The fresh air, the open water, and feeling of being a part of the ocean around you.

When you go out with someone, it's also a very different experience. You get to know people on a more personal level, and sharing the experience with them makes it that much more.

This past weekend, I had yet another opportunity to go sailing. Again I went out with Jerry, but this time I brought along my friend Muggs, who hadn't been sailing since he was about 13 or 14 years old.



This time we took out the mono-hull yacht, "Rascal", and it just fit five people. It was Muggs, Jerry, club member K.H. (initials, not sure on his full name), Australian sailing enthusiast Sherrin (not sure on spelling), and myself out on the sea. The weather was just absolutely perfect, but by Sherrin's standards, "Winter in Australia."



For me, it was more than hot enough out on the water; I was beginning to feel a bit dehydrated, but managed to overcome that with some pocari sweat (a Korean version of gatorade). We all exchanged some interesting stories and contributed to a lengthy discussion on Korea, Jeju, and how they've changed over the years as well as what the future might hold.

It was a good four and half hour sail, which ended with us sailing into harbour; Muggs thoroughly enjoyed it, as did I.

For 10,000 won, it's certainly worth the price for a unique experience out on the water. To become a member, it's 200,000 won for a dinghy certification course and then 30,000 in annual dues. To get your yachting license, you need to do a written test and then a practice run either in Busan or Seoul, which amounts to 50-60,000 won. If you're serious about sailing in Korea, it's probably a good option, especially if you want access to the yachts provided through the club.

Either way, I'll definitely be out sailing again in the future.

H1N1 Influenza / Swine Flu reaches shores of Jeju

The past few weeks there have been some reports of Swine Flu infection on Jeju island, and as a precaution, all schools, hagwon and public, are enforcing several methods to stop it from spreading.

EPIK teachers, who have either gone home during the last month or who have just arrived, have been given a week off just to make sure they don't have anything they could spread to the kids. Suddenly, Swine Flu doesn't sound that bad.

I've heard from other hagwon teachers that directors have been going around checking both students and teachers with ear thermometers, yet in most cases, haven't been washing them between uses. That's just gross.

At my own school, we've started making the kids wash their hands with disinfectants as they enter the school and have put up instruction/warning sheets around the school on what to do in case of H1N1 symptoms that are found. From what I gather, it's anyone who coughs, has a sore throat, or any flu like symptoms is supposed to be separated from the class and then sent to the hospital.

Despite all that's going on, it seems to me that most of what has been put into place is just to sooth parents' minds about their children. I'm pretty sure nothing serious is really going to happen, and even if it did, that our efforts wouldn't do much to stop it. But at the very least, now is probably the best time if you're a teacher to get away with taking that sick day you've always been dreaming of.

Seogwipo's "Son of the Wind" beats Tiger Woods

This past weekend was the 91st PGA Championship, which featured the best in golf. It's not surprising that Tiger Woods would be leading the pack by four strokes going into Saturday, but after missing several key putts, he was within reach in the final round, including by one Y.E. Yang, a Seogwipo native.

Hat tip to ROK Drop for this article published by the Associated Press:

Y.E. Yang was already 19 when he first picked up an iron at the country club where he had a low-wage job shagging golf balls. He practiced late into the night after the paying customers had gone until he became good enough to turn pro.

Now, at 37, following a stunning victory over Tiger Woods, he is the first Asian-born man to win a major golf tournament — not to mention the pride of a golf-crazy nation and the toast of a continent.


Yang's parents getting a call shortly after he won the title

Yang, known as "Son of the Wind" for his consistency even on windy days, had beaten Woods at a tournament in 2006, but never in a major.

Woods, the top player in the world, had never lost in the 14 previous majors in which he had taken a lead into the final round. Yang went into the tournament ranked 110th.

Unfazed by the gallery that trailed Woods, Yang prevailed, keeping his calm and then pumping his fist into the air when he had nailed the title, thanks in large part to a thrilling shot over a tree and onto the green from 210 yards on the 18th hole.

Yang calls himself an "average Joe" from a humble farming family from a village near Seogwipo. He says he once aspired to be a bodybuilder and dreamed of owning his own gym.

But a knee injury forced him to reconsider his bodybuilding career, and at age 19, he took a job collecting golf balls at one of Jeju's posh golf resorts.

Most South Korean golfers go through a rigorous "elite" course for aspiring pros. But Yang was already far older than the students training to becoming pro golfers, and he didn't have the money for lessons or green fees. He agreed to pick up balls as a trainee in exchange for off-hours access to the driving range and a small monthly wage, officials said.

Yang is legendary for having arrived as early as 5 a.m. to practice before the range opened and returning to hit more balls after closing time, even stringing up his own lights after dark.

Yang had played only about 100 rounds of golf by the time he left the country club for compulsory military services. When he was finished, he went to New Zealand to concentrate on golf for three months. In 1996, he turned pro — against his father's wishes.

Yang Han-joon, who grows root vegetables, pressured his son to join him in the fields. "Golf is for rich people," he recalled saying. "Why are you trying to become a golfer? Please don't do it."

Jeju, famous for its waterfalls, volcanoes, seafood and sunshine, is a popular honeymoon spot and in recent years has become a luxury golf destination. Green fees can be several hundred dollars a round...

Yang's play throughout the tournament was nothing short of amazing, I'm happy for the guy and glad that someone was finally able to beat Tiger; chalk another one up for Jeju's awesomeness.

Cool Summer Nights

Hat tip to ROK Drop, an article published at the end of July in the Chosun Ilbo brings attention to some interesting climate differences noted in this year's summer:

Sleepless tropical nights seem to have disappeared from Korea as the climate becomes more unpredictable. The Korea Meteorological Administration on Monday said Seoul saw an average of 8.8 nights when temperatures did not fall below 25 degrees Celsius from 2000 to 2008, but there has been only one tropical night so far this year.

Since 2000, Busan averaged 13.8 tropical nights during the summer until last year, but the southern city has had just one tropical night this summer. Daegu has had three against usual average of 17.9, and Jeju just 11 against 27.1 on average, the KMA said. Chuncheon and Daejeon did not see a single one so far.

The KMA finds the reason in the prolonged stay of a cold air mass from the north over the Korean Peninsula, which suppressed expansion of the North Pacific anticyclone from the south that brings sweltering heat to Korea. Jin Gee-beom, the chief of the weather forecast bureau at the KMA, said, "The Okhotsk Sea anticyclone has been especially strong this year, so the weather in Korea has been heavily influenced by cold wind from northeast. The cold air mass stays in the upper sky, and when the temperature rises during the day, it creates sudden showers and keeps temperature cool during the night."

Even though it has been cooler at night here, we've still had a lot of beautiful days of sunshine, which have been perfect for days at the beach. I just hope this doesn't mean cooler weather leading into the fall and winter...

Total Solar Eclipse

In case you missed it, here are some pictures from the Total Solar Eclipse which was viewable from Southeast Asia and Northeast Oceania on July 22nd:





Despite being incredibly cloudy, it was a sight to behold.

Photos courtesy of Brian Miller

Mac is Back

Got my laptop back from Seoul and everything is working perfectly. The best part, it only costed me 5,000 won for the shipping to Seoul.

Courtesy of Korean Macintosh User Group, an Apple authorized distributor and service provider, my laptop is now back to working condition; I'm not sure what they did, but they did replace some hardware. More blog updates to come...

Missing Apple

My laptop has been non-functional for almost the last week now; it's a hardware issue which makes it even worse.

Apple has very few retail stores in Korea, so hopefully I can call Apple back in North America and figure out an alternative. PC rooms may become my new home for the time being...

Japanese Excursion Day 1: 祭 Matsuri nights, Kyoto

Having just got back from my short vacation to Japan on Thursday, I'm still processing all that went on. I feel like I've done so much that I'm not really sure where to start, but having recorded loads of video both with my flip and Canon HD, I think I'll have good account of what happened after going through them and sharing my experience with you.

First took off from Jeju Thursday morning, July 16th. Landed in Gimpo airport and took the shuttle to Incheon International airport for the flight to Osaka. I thought there might have been not enough time with the shuttle transfer from the airports and boarding an international flight, but everything went smoothly.

My first glimpse of Japan from the plane:



Once the plane arrived in Kansai airport, you can get to Kyoto via the JR West railway line. For around 2400円 (yen) you can get a non-reserved ticket on the Airport Express HARUKA line, which is approximately a 75 minute trip.

For 1950円, you can get the slower (95 min) train to Kyoto Station, but have to transfer in Shin-Osaka. To avoid any unnecessary confusion, the Airport Express is your best bet.

Before you embark, they have attendants clean the train, even the chairs help out:



It's not much of a view on the ride; you can see the outskirts of Osaka as they lead into Kyoto. On the upside, the chairs are pretty comfy and are perfect for those who like napping.



Once the train arrived at Kyoto Station, I felt really out of place. I had a map of where I was supposed to go, but wasn't really sure how long it would take to get there, or if the bus was a better option. Having remembered that the cabs here are ridiculously expensive, I tried the walking approach.

Located on Kawaramachi-dori (street), the Econo Inn is about a 15 minute walk from Kyoto station and is easily visible from the sidewalk with it's big bright blue sign; it is particularly useful later in the evening when you might have had a few drinks.



The Econo Inn was surprisingly cheap at 3495円 a night/per person. The room was small with an even smaller bathroom, but it had an extremely comfortable comforter and bed to make up for that. It's a great place to stay on a budget and is within walking distance to many of the shopping districts and sights in Southern 東山区 Higashiyama.



Spotted a rainbow from the balcony of my room, always a good sign:



Nothing could prepare me for the craziness on the streets along Kawaramachi-dori and Shijō-dōri. In the nights leading up to the 祇園祭 Gion Matsuri parade, people walk about the streets in their summer kimonos, watching artistic and musical performances whilst perusing through countless street vendors.



Went to a nearby traditional Udon restaurant, Mendokoro Kyoumen, in the Gion District.



It was the best beef udon ever, priced at 1050円.


The nearby 八坂神社 Yasaka-jinja (Yasaka shrine) is the spot to be on the 16th, with swarms of people and shops on the shrine's grounds.



Inside the shrine, there are numerous concession stands selling everything from pineapple on-a-stick to cans of Asahi, to yakitori (barbecued chicken skewers).



Inside the shrine are several golden 神輿 Mikoshi (portable shinto shrines):

In 869 the mikoshi (portable shrines) of Gion Shrine were paraded through the streets of Kyoto to ward off an epidemic that had hit the city. This was the beginning of the Gion Matsuri, an annual festival which has become world famous.

There were several people ringing the bells nearby, praying for a wish.



We stumbled upon a 神楽, かぐら Kagura performance, "a specific type of Shinto theatrical dance — with roots arguably predating those of Noh." I was delighted.



It was a lengthy performance, but well worth watching. The next scene the main character has a battle with dragons; awesome.



He eventually kills the green dragon, who proves to be the most stubborn and powerful amongst the lot. The actors reveal themselves and bow to the large crowd.

Decided to turn in at that point, and prepare for the parade of floats early the next day.