Delicious 오리 고기

I never thought I would like eating 오리 고기 (oh-lee go-gi or "duck meat") so much, but after trying it several times here on Jeju, I'm starting to like it. The first time I tried it was with Brian and Mike, right here in Shinsikaji.



That was way back in December, which seems almost like a life time ago now. Since then, I've been to a few duck restaurants and have tried several variations.

On Sunday evening, I was out with some friends in Jeju-si and had the opportunity to try out some pumpkin roasted duck; I know it sounds strange, but it tastes quite nice.



It doesn't look like the most appetizing thing, but once you try it with the honey mustard dipping sauce, you're in for a surprise. I don't know the exact directions to the restaurant, but it's out in Samyang, just off the main street.

Much like other galbi restaurants, you're served the lettuce leaves with peppers, some onions, and hot bean paste. There are no shortage of side dishes and new treats to explore for those feeling adventurous. The duck is also marinated with some kind of BBQ sauce and has cooked mushrooms and garlic cloves; yum!

After you finish your main meal, you're served this delightful sesame spicy soup with loads of veggies. If the duck didn't fill you up, the soup will certainly help. That's one thing I've noticed about Korean meals, rarely do you ever go hungry, or even finish everything.



Just yesterday I went out my 해동검도 class to another nearby duck restaurant. This time the duck was served in marinated in a wok, cooked for a bit and then mixed with marinated green onions and veggies...it tasted fantastic. They give you this ice soup broth as a side dish, which helps to take the edge off the spice if it's too hot. Afterwards they mix in rice, similar to 닭갈비.

Anyway, if you haven't had duck before, you're missing out. I recommend stopping in a 오리 restaurant next time you're looking to try something new for dinner. Bon appétit! 잘막겠습니다!

백호기 semi-finals

Saturday afternoon Brian, Jim, Mike, and I went to the 백호기 (Baek ho gee) match at the bus terminal stadium in Jeju-si. Baek ho gee is the high school football tournament that takes place here on the island, and Saturday was the semi-finals.

We arrived sometime during the first game, and I was immediately blown away by the cheering section that was there; this loud ensemble of kids were the center of attention, not the game.

More than a hundred high school kids made up these huge masses of organized team cheering sections; there were even smaller dedicated sections of mothers and fans cheering for the teams as well. It was overwhelming.

Seogwipo was playing in the first game, however, their cheering section was somewhat lacking compared to the others. It didn't matter though, they scored a great goal in the final 10 minutes to win the match and secure their place into the finals.



After the first game, there was a break as crowds of high school kids started pouring into the stadium, forming their cheering sections. Jim and I watched as hundreds of these kids started lining up in rows and rows, forming giant squares on the opposite side of the stadium; it took at least twenty minutes just for them to get into formation there was so many of them.



Once assembled their massive cheers shook the stadium. With the mighty Hallasan silhouetted in the background, it was quite an experience.

The stadium isn't as big or nice as the World Cup Stadium in Seogwipo, but it probably gets a better average turnout for the Jeju United games.



The arrange of cheers and styles was amazing: attack helicopters, tanks, battleships, running pumas, an exploding Mt. Halla...and that's only from one team.

The next two teams were quite impressive, both on and off the field. 대기 (Dae gee) scored some very impressive goals to win the match and move into the finals against Seogwipo on Sunday.



The whole experience reminded me of the opening ceremonies for the Beijing Olympics. The whole organization and display of these routines were almost robotic. It was flawless.



I managed to get quite a bit of video with my HDV camera and I'm excited to see how it all turned; Brian was roaming around the track and he got quite a few good photos of the game and cheers as well:


This next video is the last part of the Hallasan cheer, just after it erupts and lava runs down its sides.



After the end of the second game, we all packed up and headed to City Hall to meet up with some friends at Bagdad for a birthday party. I didn't make it to the final game on Sunday, but got a call from Brian as Seogwipo scored the winning goal to claim the championship title. It's always a good feeling when the underdog wins.

삼성혈 (Samseonghyeol)

This weekend was pretty productive for me in terms of getting around to seeing some places and events I've yet to experience. One of those is 삼성혈 (Samseonghyeol), a place of origins in Jeju's myths.

Designated as the National Heritage number 134, Samseonghyeol has been said to be the birth place of legendary founders of Tamna; Goh Eulla, Yang Eulla, and Buh Eulla. There remain three holes known as the spots these three founders came out...On April 10, and October 10 every year, decendants offer Great Service of Spring and Fall (Chunchudaejae)...

The national heritage site is located within Jeju-si, and is easily accessible by buses and cabs. The admission fee is 2500 won, or 1250 with your alien registration card.

After walking down a small path, you enter through a gate into a sacred looking forest; the lighting is mellow and mysterious, exactly what you'd imagine such a place to be like.



Following the immediate stone path leads to an open courtyard in front of an old Confucian school. Over head hang cherry blossoms in full bloom, their pedals slowing floating to the ground.



Behind a nearby gate and wall are some more structures; a pair of monks emerge to converse with some curious Koreans, above more blossoms cast a brilliant glow in the cavernous forest.



Just a few steps away lie the three holes that gave birth to the ancient Tamnese culture. After taking numerous pictures and videos, Brian and I make our way to the center piece; it's soft lighting and groomed grounds suit it perfectly, like something dreamed up.



After scaling a wall, I can finally see the holes which were obstructed by the barriers only a few metres away. I look up to see a giant cherry blossom tree which makes up the canopy above.



Brian goes around back to get a better shot of a gate, while the rest of us relax and talk for a few minutes.

After checking our watches, we realize that we haven't got much time until the 백호기 (baek ho gee) match. We exit back through the gate, leaving behind the sacred grove and it's hollows.

It's definitely worth checking out at least once while you're on Jeju, even if you're just in Jeju-si for the day.

Jeju-si mission

This past Friday, Matt and I went into Jeju city on a mission: to find him a scooter and to register my change of address. We both had to work in the afternoon, so we left Seogwipo around 8:30, giving us enough time to meander around a bit. When we arrived, we grabbed some quick refreshments and started our search for the scooter shop behind the bus terminal.

Despite our best efforts, we failed to locate the scooter shop for the second time in a row. This time we decided to give him a call and figure our exactly where we should be going.

For anyone who's been interesting in renting or buying scooters on Jeju, one place you should check out in Jeju-si is Mr. Lee's bike shop. If you're exiting the bus terminal, go right and it's about three blocks (or the first intersection with lights) before you need to take another right.

After that, it's only a block away and on the opposite side of the street. You can find a map with directions plus all the rental and contact information here.



He's got a pretty big selection of new bikes and scooters, and has a few used ones for sale as well. If you're looking for something, he's probably your best bet to find it, especially if you don't know much Korean.



I managed to find myself a helmet that fit my huge head that also had a visor, so that I wouldn't have to worry anymore about wind and bugs flying into my face while driving; bonus!

After Matt sized up a few scooters, he took one for a test drive and fell in love; not long after he closed the deal and we were off to phase II of our Jeju-si mission.

We hopped into a cab and headed for City Hall, where the Civil Service centre is located, and where I needed to go to register my change of address.

When you move from one apartment to another in Korea, you need to register your change of address within 14 days of your move, so my director told me I had to go to this centre to get my alien registration card updated.

It's easy to spot as it's immediately to the right once you cross over to the the side of the road where City Hall is located.



I went in and grabbed a ticket for the cue, which immediately rang once I had drawn my number. I spoke with a translator who informed me that I needed to go to either the Immigration Office, where I was issued my card, or to the City Hall in Seogwipo.

The Immigration Office was the closest, so we jumped into another cab and we were off again.



After finishing our business, we had enough time to grab a quick sandwich before getting back on the bus for home. If you want to know where to get the best sandwiches on the island, go to Paris Baguette in Jeju-si, near City Hall. They serve an amazing sandwich, even by Western standards.

For 4500 won you get a sesame toasted baguette bun loaded with meat, really decent cheese, lettuce, tomatoes, and some butter I believe.

If you love sandwiches, and are finding yourself craving one on Jeju, this is what you'll want to get:



When I got back to Shinsikaji, I went to my school a bit early, to prepare some games for the day. It was our bi-monthly cuny party day, and I was responsible for arranging the games. I spent the whole afternoon with a co-teacher playing games with the kids; it was a great way to end the work week.

Jeju Horses

Jeju horses are known as somewhat of an island treasure, there have been studies into its nutritional properties, there are even records of Jeju horses being used as tribute, and the island as a location to raise Mongolian stock:

According to the records, during the year of 1073 (King Munjong of Joseon dynasty) and the year of 1258 (King Gojong of Joseon dynasty), Jeju horses were paid in tribute to the Won dynasty of China. In 1273 (King Wonjong), Won dynasty set up ranches in Jejudo, where the Mongolian horses were raised.

I've been to the Ma Park and have even tried 말 고기 (horse meat) before, but I wasn't aware that they were also used in fights.

Brian in Jeollanam-do, posted about it and informed me that there is an annual horse festival in the fall in which they hold these fights; they're also held during the fire festival.

I went to the fire festival, and I do recall horses, but people were riding them, and there were some of the Mongolian performers with them as well...I just assumed maybe it was part of advertising for the Ma Park, but maybe it wasn't.

There are plenty of extravagant animals on this island, horses being one of them, but I don't agree with them being used in fights for entertainment value, even if it is "simply observing nature in action."

Calling in sick?

I've had a cold since Sunday, and it just doesn't seem to want to go away. It has put a hold on my Kumdo, which is partly a blessing, since I was still aching Sunday evening, and was curious as to how my body would be after a full week of constant physical abuse...guess I'll find out next week.

All of the teachers at my hagwon are either sick or getting sick, so it's been a slow and messy process of teaching kids this week. Should I call in sick? While most people would take a day off or two, at hagwons this is simply not an option. Unless you are dying/dead or have to go to the hospital for emergency surgery, then you're expected to show up and teach your class; no matter how sick you may look or feel.

This is one drawback that comes with working at a hagwon. If I were in EPIK, I would have 14 sick days to use. I know some friends who've called in sick just because they've overslept by 30 minutes; sometimes it makes me cry, but then I remember I don't have to get to my classes until two in the afternoon and then I smile again...and cough.

My new ride

After talking again with Zach this week, we worked out a price and I bought his scooter. Zach is leaving for Japan by the end of the week to start his new job working in the public school system. He's been on Jeju for four years, and was one of the few who've been here for that long; I wish him all the best.

It's a fine looking 125cc scooter, and I'm sure it'll get the job done. Came with two helmets, some gloves, a few cables, a lock, and a full tank of gas. As soon as it warms up, I'll probably be making daily trips to the beach. Matt and I have discussed starting a soggy scooter gang...now we just need a name.

50th post

Well this is it, my 50th post; not that a big deal to some, but it's a start. I've been blogging Jeju for almost 5 months now and it's been a blast so far. Jim Saunders, editor of Jeju Life, interviewed me this past week about my experience thus far. You can check it out here.

It's on the right hand side of the Jeju Life web page, under Jeju Life podcast episode 5. Enjoy!

Fowl, flowers, & falls

After getting settled into my new place on Saturday, I thought it would be a good opportunity to start looking for a scooter.

On Sunday, I had arranged to meet Matt out front of Paris Baguette in Seogwipo to begin our scooter shopping adventure. On Jeju, the popular spot to go for scooters (for foreigners anyway) is Mr. Lee's in Jeju-si. In Seogwipo however, his brother has a shop; we thought we'd start there.

Speaking with a friend, Matt had gotten some basic information on the whereabouts of this scooter vendor. With Matt at the helm, we began walking down the street, towards what we thought was the scooter place.

It was a lovely day outside, so I didn't mind getting a bit lost for the exercise. We came across some very pleasant looking parks, I never knew that there were so many around downtown, but there are.



Approaching the first intersection, I looked to Matt for some sign of recognition. He paused for a moment, reconfirming our location and then motioned down along another street.

We passed by another park, this time with a boardwalk built upon a pond. There were a few people down by the water checking it out. Above our heads we heard the chirp of a bird, Matt immediately recognized it as a Great Tit. Having Matt with you is like having a bird encyclopedia.



After passing by a soccer field, Matt seemed to remember where we were and where we needed to go. We made another left and headed back towards the downtown district.

We stopped at this bridge, which shook violently everytime a car passed over it, but it was worth it to take in the sights below.

I noticed some cherry blossom trees and got excited, as I have been looking forward to this Spring setting. Matt pulled out his binoculars are starting naming off a few interesting finds down by the water.



The first I noticed was a large white bird, which Matt told me was a young White Egret. It was very impressive looking, as I haven't taken much notice of birds since coming to Jeju.



Out of the corner of my eye I spotted an incredibly fast green flash of colour: a Kingfisher. They kind of look like hummingbirds, but a lot bigger.



Among the rocks were dozens of ducks, but one in particular impressed Matt, and that was the Mandarin Duck. They're a lot more colourful and impressive than regular ducks, and probably better at attracting mates too.

I've never really put much thought into bird watching before, but with Matt around it defintely made it a lot more interesting; he is always prepared on any occasion. It reminded a lot of the game Pokemon Snap for Nintendo 64, where the goal was to take as many pictures of rare creatures as possible; that game was awesome.



We eventually continued on our trek and concluded that we had been traveling in a circle; still the sights were worth it. When we finally did find the scooter place, it was unimpressive and looked abandoned. It was time for phase two: go to Jeju-si.

I had spoken with my friend Zach the day before about arranging to see his scooter, which he was selling. I knew he lived in Seogwipo, so I gave him a call and found out that he lived just up the street from where I did in Shinsikaji.

We jumped into a cab, and rode out of town like a turtle in a wheelchair. Once we got to Shinsikaji, I noticed that the streets were lined with cheery blossom trees, and just about all of them were blooming; it looked remarkable.



All of them were swarming with bees, going crazy for their sweet nectar. I tried to move in for a close-up, but who knows when those bees could attack. Apparently the birds were enjoying the feast too, munching on the bees who were in an ecstasy.



Zach's scooter looked in pretty good shape; both Matt and I took it for a test drive around the block and were satisfied with its abilities. Matt was looking for something with a bit more power, so we started to head back towards E-mart and the bus stop.

Thinking ahead, Matt decided to call Mr. Lee just to check if he was even open; turns out he was not, and didn't seem to want to answer any questions on the phone either.

With nothing planned for the afternoon, we got on a bus headed back for downtown and met up with Mike for some delicious tender pork stew. When we had our fill, I thought it would be a good idea to use the remaining hours of sunlight to checkout the harbour.

On the way to the harbour, we decided to make a detour and headed to Jeongbang waterfall instead; I've never been before and now seemed like as good as time as any.



We walked through this gated entrance to arrive at some museum or another, it was closed, but there was a really nice park with a fantastic view of the Ocean and Seogwipo harbour.

There was also this statue of Xu Fu in the park. He was some Chinese guy that went on a crazy voyage with 600 young men and women looking for the elixir or life; seems like a realistic cause.



Continuing our walk along to the falls, we discovered some more secret parks; all of which were quite uninhabited and would make the pefect spot for an afternoon picnic or a reading a book.



Not much further was the entrance to the falls. We flashed our residence cards and walked down the steps to the Ocean. Below us, perched upon the rocks, were Haenyo (women free divers) selling their wares fresh from the Ocean.



The Jeongbang waterfalls are always busy, but it didn't bother us. Matt took a seat, while Mike roamed along the shore, and I went in for a closer look of the falls. I got a bit of spray in the face, but it felt refreshing.



Moving down along the shore, I took a seat for a moment, taking in the view and fresh sea air. There were plenty of boats out working in the harbour.



Once we had a rest, Matt wanted to show us this abandoned hotel, which turns out to be former President Syngman Rhee's summer home. It's not too much further past the falls, you just need to continue the route past the parking lot, through a small park.



Once we got there, we climbed some stairs and checked it out. The view from the second floor was pretty sweet, too bad no one lived there. It would have been a sweet spot for a cafe or something, and all it needed was a bit of elbow grease and some new tiles...or maybe a complete overhaul, either way, it's a shame.



As the sun began to set, we all made our separate ways and headed on home. I stuck around with Mike for a bit to meet up with Brian, but I didn't stay long.

The next day on the way to work, I decided to take some more video of the cherry blossoms that decorate the streets; I'm going to make an effort this weekend to go out with my HDV camera and get some footage.



There was also some nice flowers along the road that I thought deserved some attention.



The rape seed flowers, or canola flowers, are everywhere. I can't look around without seeing them in Shinsikaji. This is a view from my school's street:



It wasn't a very exciting weekend, but I prefer taking it easy and being spontaneous. It's been so busy with school and classes that a weekend or two of nothing is what I need.

Another win for the good guys

Bang Seung-Hwan scored in the 72nd minute to put Jeju in the lead, and the rest is history. With this win against Suwon Bluewings, Jeju United now moves into the 4th spot in the K-League standings; that's two in row for Jeju United, I hope they keep it coming.

Their next match is April 5th at home in the World Cup Stadium against Gyeongnam FC, it should be a good one.

Pension Paradise

I spent most of Saturday moving into my new pension apartment; it is glorious. It's bigger, better, and has a beautiful view of the ocean and Beomseom island. Here is the view from my veranda:



The apartment has a main room/bedroom with enough space for a couch if I wanted one. Although I'm now thinking of just getting a traditional Korean tea table with some cushions, so that I'll have a place for people to sit and relax when they come over.



The kitchen is big enough for a table of four and I have a full size refrigerator as well as a built-in purified water dispenser with hot/cold taps, which means no more boiling water in a kettle for me!

The apartment is also all-inclusive, so I don't have to worry about paying any utilities, or about skimping on the air-conditioning when the Summer heat sets in.



Did I mention that it's also surrounded by gardens and orange grove fields?

It's a bit off the beaten path, but that's its only shortcoming; in fact, I prefer it that way, so that I can enjoy the peace and quiet whenever I want.

There is a road that leads past the pension and down towards the shore, so I'll need to do some more exploring when I get the chance. The road leading to the pension is surrounded by these beautiful orange groves, with the World Cup Stadium towering over the trees in the distance; it's all quite serene.



I'm in the market for a scooter, so once I have that, my pension paradise will be complete.

Sudden Attack

It's probably the most popular computer game at PC rooms around Korea at the moment, but Sudden Attack is more than just a game; it's a way of life here in Korea.

Some of you may be confused, I'm not actually referring to the game as being a part of life, although some may argue that gaming in Korea has had a major impact on it's society, and not the good kind either.

I'm referring to how many Koreans like to suddenly "attack" you with random requests/information at the last possible moment. As English teachers working in Korea, we come to expect it from time to time, some have even gotten used to it, but that doesn't mean we have to like it.

For example, just last week I was informed that my pension was closing down, and that I will have to be moved out by tomorrow. My Director had already been looking, but didn't bother to tell me anything until just last week. The replacement apartment he found is a paradise, so I'm not too upset about it, but I would have appreciated a little more warning.

Just this week, however, I was approached with another "sudden attack" scenario. I had just finished my first class Monday afternoon when my co-teacher informed me that I was going to be teaching two new students this week; he gave me option, teach the two in one class (adding another class period to my schedule) or combine them with the class I had just taught. I didn't want to have to teach an extra class for only two students, so I thought combining them would be the better choice.

But since I had already taught the class, I would have to teach them at a separate time this week. I thought to myself, why didn't they just ask me before I started the class, avoiding this altogether. So now my options were to teach them during one of my free periods, on Thursday or Friday. I went with Thursday, but then was later informed that another teacher needed that time off, so I would have to accept Friday.

So Friday rolls around, and I arrive at my school to find that I'm not just teaching two kids, but the whole combined class now, which I wouldn't have had to teach if I didn't combine them, or if they had just told me last week/before I started my classes Monday afternoon.

I ended up teaching this screaming class of new children that speak no English at all, and are just loud noise making machines, not exactly how I wanted it to go, but that's "sudden attack" for you; apparently I'm not very good at this game...yet.

해동검도

해동검도 or Haidong Gumdo, is a traditional Korean martial arts practice using swords. Its very similar to Japanese Kendo, and differs in only cultural characteristics and methods.

Over the past few weeks I've been looking to get into some marital arts, mostly to add some more exercise to my daily routine. After speaking with a few friends, I decided upon Gumdo, which is only a few blocks from my apartment, and just down the street from my school.

Brian had been going to the gym for several years, before moving to Jeju-si last month, so I knew I'd probably be welcomed there. For about 80,000 won a month, I get a daily schedule of workout routines, sword training (with free access to their swords), and a free uniform.

Yesterday was my first class, and I thought I was going to die. I've been through some intense workouts before, but I guess the master wanted to break me in, by seeing how long it would take until I collapsed; my back and muscles were sore for the rest of the day, but that didn't stop me from going back again this morning.

Today's workout was a bit more relaxed and having gone through it once before, I knew what to expect. There were some other newer faces, who looked very much like I did the day before after doing some brief exercises.

Supposedly the first month is the worst, once I can get myself through it, I'll be a lot more prepared for what comes next.

Thank god Korea has energy drinks...

Tourism and sillyness

Jeju ranks highest in survey polled amongst foreigners traveling in Korea:

The most impressive locations mentioned were “Jeju Island” (18.1%), Insa-dong (16.9%), Gyeongju (15.7%), Seoul’s palaces (10.8%), shopping streets like Itaewon and Namdaemun Market (9.6%) and Mt. Seoraksan (6.0%).

Its always nice to hear that Jeju is still holding strong as the most desired place to travel within Korea by foreigners, even if the poll was about how one in three foreigners had an unpleasant experience while traveling.

You don't have to travel to have an unpleasant experience, I'm sure everyone has had their share of mishaps, but it certainly takes the fun out of your vacation when you're traveling.

In other news, apparently Japanese politicians wanted to buy Jeju island with the increase in capital due to the current strength of the yen. This is probably as likely as Jeju getting a nude beach.

We Are 제주도!

The weather the last few days has been fantastic; Spring is definitely here. So when I woke up to a beautiful day late Sunday morning, I felt immediately excited about the upcoming match.

Walking down towards the stadium, I could already see the signs of a big crowd from the heavy traffic pouring in from all directions. I met up with Liz and Matt in the front lot near the entrance to the stadium.



After buying a Jeju jersey, I felt a lot more spirited and ready to support the team; the free beer also helped too. We bumped into some other friends walking around amongst the crowds, and made our way towards the stadium.

On the way I noticed some strange dancing going on. It looks like a cross between K-pop dancing and a traditional masked ceremony.



Once inside the barriers, we quickly found the other members of our group. We took our seats and began blowing up our thunder sticks, which were more of a hassle than useful.

Matt seemed to be getting a kick out of them as he was going pretty much non-stop with them; I gave him mine when his later deflated, probably not the best decision I made.

As the fans moved to get their seats, the teams on the field were doing their warmup; Matt and I took this opportunity to find more beer.



Once most people had settled, the announcer started introducing the members of Jeju United. Looking around, I could see that it was a great turnout, and from what I've been told, probably the best turnout there has been since the World Cup 2002 match; Easily 20-25,000 people showed up.



A few moments later a giant banner came flying over our heads. It was fun, and got the fans involved early on.



There was some fireworks, streamers, and confetti launched into the air to sound the beginning of the match; the players went quickly into action.



Our section had an impressive chorus going, similar melodies echoed amongst the fans.



The sun finally started to retreat behind the giant sail that covers the stadium. At first I was relieved, but then realized how quickly it got cold in the shade. The first half was nearly over, both teams had some opportunities, but Gwanju was looking like the better team.



Many balloons found freedom, flying off into the atmosphere as little boys and girls cried at their departure.



When the first 45 minutes had ended, we all rushed to the bathrooms and concession stands. Time to stock up on some more beers for the second half. I make a bet with Matt in line at the concessions, that if Jeju wins I would wear my jersey the next day in class.

Not long after the game resumed, Jeju United was getting some good chances in front of the net.



Jeju United started putting pressure on Gwanju, getting passed their defenses and better opportunities at a clear shot.



The fans were getting excited, you could feel the anticipation building. With each goal attempt, the crowd went into a bigger uproar.



Mistakes were made by both teams, but Jeju was now in control of the game. They spent the majority of the half on the offense and the work was beginning to pay off.



About a minute later Jeju scored, and the crowd went wild...



Everyone was pumped up, no one had expected that they would score, especially since last year they didn't until late into the season; It felt great. Darren came up with an appropriate chant in celebration:



With less than 10 minutes left in the game, we knew that victory was ours. Watching the clock run down, everyone cheered with excitement.



It was definitely a good way to start off the season at home, and what better way to get more fans involved with the matches. From what I've been told, attendance hasn't been that great; maybe things will turn around this season. I can't wait to find out.

It's not easy

It's not easy losing someone, especially a friend and part of the family. Late last week, Jeju lost one of its members of the expat community, Nathan Furey.


I didn't know him, but everyone here has been touched by this tragedy. It came very fast and unexpectedly. He leaves behind a wife and two sons, and many friends; he will be missed.

There is an auction being held with all proceeds going towards Nathan Furey's family. You can also donate towards this cause by contacting Anj Shroeder at littlegirlfromtheprairies@yahoo.ca.

Its hard to believe that something like this could happen and especially so fast. Talking with some friends, this situation poses many questions about treatment and the health care system here.

Korea Beat brings up some very important issues about Korea's health care system, especially it's treatment of foreigner patients. There is quite a bit of feedback on the issue, and its definitely something that we should all be aware of as foreigners living here.

Jroc's Jeju guide to St. Patty's Day

While some of you may be thinking, "Well I'm in Korea, I guess I don't have to celebrate St. Patty's Day...", you'd be wrong, dead wrong. It doesn't matter where you are or what you're doing, as a world ambassador of peace, it is your duty to spread the love and joy that comes with the Irish spirit...and of course, the drinking.

Being partly Irish, I've taken upon myself to come up with a practical guide for those of you who aren't quite sure what to do with yourselves come the 14th of March.

Step One: Find yourself a green t-shirt, shirt, dress shirt, hat, jacket, or some pants. If you're not wearing green, you're not doing your job.



Step Two: Locate the nearest alcohol supplier, whether that be a GS25, Family Mart, or a soju tent in your back parking lot. This will be the first place you go once you get up.

Step Three: Set alarm to 9:00 am; Saint Patrick didn't become the patron saint of Ireland by sleeping in.

Step Four: Wake up, immediately head to nearest liquor outlet, purchase alcohol. Just enough to hold you over 'til after breakfast, wherein you'll need to find some more drinks. Now some of you may be thinking, "What should I buy, there is so many choices?"

First of all, you'll want something a little easy on the liver, you don't want to be passing out before making it to the evening/nightly festivities. I suggest a bottle or two of Jeju Makgeolli; the label is green, so it adds even more to your contribution to the festive spirit.

Step Five: Get breakfast. You can't work on an empty stomach, so how can you go about drinking all day on one. You'll want a big meal, the more food the better, this will help keep your pace with your drinking.

Step Six: Recruit some colleagues, friends, mates, chums, co-workers, or randoms off the street to drink with you. If you can't find someone to drink with, you're not trying hard enough, especially in Korea.

Step Seven: Get some lunch. By this time, you'll be on your way to getting drunk, so you'll need some more food to keep yourself up and going. I suggest something spicy, as this will help to give a quick jolt to your system to help maintain your relative sobriety. Being in Korea, there is many spicy choices to choose from; for those of you brave enough, I recommend 불닭 (bul dahk) or "Fire Chicken".

Step Eight: After refueling, you can get back to drinking with your ole pal/mate, and continue your journey to inebriation, however, if you're feeling like you won't be able to continue drinking for much longer, head to the nearest jimgilbang (sauna room) for some relaxation and rejuvenation. Most offer drinks there as well, so if you want to keep going, you'll have easy access.

Step Nine: You may be feeling a bit hungry after spending an hour or two in the sauna, so its now time to embrace the true Irish in you; buy a guinness. You can find them at almost any GS25, Family Mart, E-mart, and even most western/foreign restaurants. Its thick like soup, but creamy like coffee. Its a definite meal replacement if I've ever needed one.



Step Ten: You're on your way to becoming a true patron saint, its now time to congregate the masses. Take out your cell phone, start dialing friends' numbers. Call as many people as you can to find out where they're at; organize something and get moving, you've only got so many hours of drinking left.

Well that's all you really need to know, anything else you do after that is just an added bonus, especially if you're still conscious by this point; and you should be if you've followed my step by step instructions.

For anyone on Jeju for this most wondrous of occasions, feel free to stop by Blue Agave, there will be some night time festivities for all to enjoy. Happy St. Patrick's Day!

March First Movement

The March First Movement is one of the most remembered and honoured events in the history of Korea. Inspired by the liberal and egalitarian teachings from Western and Christian scholars, Korean teachers and students organized a protest demonstration against the occupying Japanese forces on the 1st of March, 1919. The result was thousands of dead and wounded, imprisonment, and torture for anyone involved with the protest.

Over the last week or two I've noticed quite a few Korean flags along the roads. There is almost two flags for every pole on the streets. Curiously, I asked my co-workers if it was in remembrance of The March First Movement, since their appearance seemed to coincide with the beginning of March.



Apparently, it does have something to do with the event, but more importantly with a particular individual, Yu Gwan Sun.


She was a student at a women's missionary school, and had helped organize the protest. Both her parents were killed in the demonstration, and she was imprisoned and tortured to death. Even during her imprisonment she never stopped protesting, her resilience is revered amongst Koreans. The fact that she is female emphasizes her role in Korean history even more so.

So if you happen to be walking along the streets and see Korean flags everywhere, you'll know why.

K-League Football

Well unfortunately Jeju United's first game of the season was a 1-0 loss to newcomers Gangwon FC, but I have some hope for their next match this coming Sunday against Gwangju. Here is a 2009 profile of each team:


Gwangju Samgmu Phoenix

Every season is tough for the military club which has to deal with losing half its team every season.

Arrivals: This season's big name is former international Choi Sung-kuk who arrives from Seongnam.

Prospects: For the south-western club, any position that isn't bottom is a success.

Coach: Lee Kang-jo

Stadium: Gwangju World Cup Stadium (44,118)

Jeju United

The islanders recovered somewhat after a slow start last season to finish firmly in mid-table. Coach Artur Bernardes hinted that he could help the club move up the table.

Departures: Romulo has gone to Busan while Cho Jin-soo is now an Ulsan player.

Arrivals: International defender Kang Min-soo is one of the more expensive signings of the winter. He will line up with national team mate Cho Hyong-yong. There are the usual couple of new Brazilians as well as the temperamental Bang Sung-hwan.

Prospects: Look for more mid-table consolidation.

Coach: Arthur Bernardes
Stadium: Seogwipo World Cup Stadium (42,256)

Over the past three seasons these teams have had some competitive rivalry. Jeju United has faired a bit better, but this season Gwanju Sangmu looks to be off on a good start with their 3-0 win last saturday, moving them into the 2nd spot of the 2009 K-League standings.

Spring Festivals

While walking past World Cup Stadium yesterday I noticed a banner for the Jeju Rape Flower Festival. I've also had a lot of interest in finding out when the Jeju Cherry Blossom Festival is, and so, I did a bit of internet surfing and put together a list of Jeju's more popular Spring festivals. Its not a complete list of Jeju's Spring festivals, but I'm fairly certain that the dates for the festivals are accurate.

The Gangjeong Stream Sweetfish Festival: 05.23.2009 ~ 05.25.2009, Gangjeongcheon (river), Seogwipo

Unlike the ordinary streams of Jeju that are almost dry, Gangjeong Stream is always abundant to take 70% of water supply of Seoguipo. The natural groundwater of Halla Mountains flows throughout the year to form a rare habitat of sweetfish at Gangjeong Stream and the sweetfish festival has been held since 2002 to improve this resource.

The Jeju Rape Flower festival: 03.27.2009 ~ 03.29.2009, Seogwipo-si International Convention Center, Jungmun

In Korea spring comes earliest to Jeju-do Island, and by the end of February the yellow rape flowers are beginning to bloom. By festival time in April the entire island is awash with bright yellow flowers, which last for the entirety of spring.

The Jeju Rape Flower festival is one of the most famous festivals in Jeju and attracts large numbers of visitors every year. As well enjoying the wild flowers, visitors will fully enter the festive spirit with the festival’s various entertainment events.

The rape flowers you can see just about anywhere around the island. I recommend checking out one of the Halla-san trails, where you'll find some really breathtaking views.

Jeju King Cherry Blossoms Festival : 04.04.2009 ~ 04.08.2009, Jeju Sports Complex, Seogwipo downtown area

Jeju's king cherry blossoms can be seen all over Seogwipo downtown area and the surrounding the Jeju Sports Complex. The petals of Jeju’s king cherry blossoms are the largest and most luxurious among all other cherry blossoms.

However, these cherry blossoms fully blossom only for 2 to 3 days, and though many other cherry blossoms bloom from the end of March to early April, these king cherry blossoms can only be seen in full bloom during the festival period in early April. The heart of the festival is the gorgeous cherry blossom road where visitors can enjoy romantic music as well as the beautiful scenery.

The cherry blossoms can be spotted just about anywhere on Jeju as well. I've already spotted a few in bloom in Jungmun, while on the bus to Jeju-si. Cheju National University has some very impressive cherry blossom grounds, and Halla-san also boasts a few trees of it's own.

Remnants of Tamna

Up until the 15th century, Jeju island was known as the kingdom of Tamna. Other than the fact that it was an island country, there is little known about it's history.

There are however, some remnants of that kingdom spread across the island; one of the lesser known spots is Ohyeondan, Jeju Special Self-Governing Province Monument No. 1.


I didn't get much sleep Saturday night, but after waking to such a beautiful day, I felt it would be stupid to waste it by spending it in bed. I had stayed the night in Jeju-si, and so was ready to embark on an adventurous walkabout; first I needed some breakfast.



Brian and I walked down to Room and Kitchen for some western-style breakfast, or as close as one can probably get in Jeju; I chose the casadias while Brian went with the sausage and eggs. After some fuel, we continued about our walking and were on our way to meet up with some friends whom were playing soccer at a nearby middle school field.

After finding our way, we sat for a few minutes to watch our friend Jim try relentlessly to get his team back into the game; he was unsuccessful in his attempts, but I applaud his efforts. Soon enough he joined us and we decided to take a walk down to the old Jeju city walls.



We arrived there in under ten minutes. The walls gave me the impression of being very old. After reading the sign, we learned that their exact time of structure was unknown, but that repairs were ordered by some king sometime in the mid-15th century, so that they must have been there before that.



Continuing around to the back, we found a beautiful park with some monuments, in honour of some prominent Tamnese scholars. The park isn't very big, but its definitely worth checking out sometime. Especially if you feel up for a walk and you are in Jeju-si.



Brian noticed that there were some cherry blossom trees there too, so maybe we'll stop back in again when they're in season.

Photo provided by Brian Miller

Let's Go Jeju!

Being a sports fan, I enjoy watching almost every sport there is; being a sports fan on Jeju, I have limited options to sustain my interest. That being said, I was very excited upon learning that there was a World Cup Stadium located only five minutes from where I live.

Since moving to Jeju in 2006, Bucheon SK, now renamed Jeju United, have yet to have a very productive season. Coming from Ontario, Canada, I can understand what it means to be cheering for a lost cause.


Jeju United's first game of the season starts today at 2:00 pm, against Gangwon FC. Their first home game, at World Cup Stadium, takes place next Sunday at 3:00pm, and I'll be there.

If you're wearing red or orange, you can get a discount, and if you're wearing a Jeju United tee or jersey, its free; the tee-shirts are only 1000 won so why not go. Its as good as any reason to get outside, spend time with some friends, and enjoy a few beer watching a game. If you want to know more about this season's schedule you can find it here.

Korean history on film

Whilst going through some popular Korean blog updates, I came upon some interesting old Korean film clips.

After doing a bit of digging, I discovered some more interesting footage of everyday scenes taken from Seoul, 1899.



Being a film studies and a history major, I appreciate it when someone comes across something as interesting as this. I have The Marmot's Hole to thank for finding it. I just love seeing how time has shaped such historical places, and how people and places looked like more than a hundred years ago.

Jeju is almost as close as one can get in Korea to a similar society. Its very laid back, easy going, and very in tune with the land and sea.


I happened across a film clip which was taken in 1933, depicting the Korean coast and its agricultural society. The rock at the beginning of the clip looks very much like Oedolgae, the scenic tourist stop in Seogwipo.



I found a lot of interesting newsreels produced by the British outlet of the Pathe News, which were typically shown at the beginning of films in theatres back in the Golden Age of Hollywood cinema.

Amongst them, several clips about the history of riots in Korea. I thought this very interesting, especially after reading about a recent close encounter with one in Seoul from my good friend Jim.

The first takes place just after Korea's first anniversary of their declaration of independence in 1947.



The second is from some riots that took place only a year later, when Koreans in Japan protested against the teaching of Japanese in Korean schools.



The third is from a protest against Korea's first president, Syngman Rhee, whom resigned after riots in 1960 and went into exile.



Look anywhere on the internet and you'll see just how common rioting is in Korea; nothing says keeping with tradition like rioting in Korea. Its no surprise then that you might just come face to face with rioting during your time here, except maybe on Jeju.

A rainy season

Along with the arrival of spring in Jeju, comes the rain. Looking out my window the past few days hasn't been a pleasant sight, but it makes for good sleeping.



And this morning...



The rainy season has started, but its only the beginning:

The island is unique in that the so-called 'Bracken Rainy Spell,' prior to the monsoon season, sweeps through the island in the Spring. In the Spring rainy season, a series of drizzle serves to make Spring the second highest rainy season, providing 23% of the annual precipitation. The "Bracken Rainy Spell" is equivalent to the "zzu you(梅雨)" in Japan.

The biggest rain season however is in the Summer, when weather is almost completely unpredictable and can change many times throughout the day; maybe I should buy an umbrella? 우산 주세요.

Birthdays

Over the past two weekends there have been a few birthdays to celebrate, mine included. Birthdays are always a good reason to relax and spend some time with the people you care about. Whether it be a shared meal, some drinks at the pub, or an outdoor adventure, its all about enjoying yourself.

For some, birthdays can be a painful reminder of how old they're getting and how quickly life has been passing them by. I don't really see it that way; if anything, I think that your age is really determined by how you act and react to your surroundings and your condition. In most cases, if you think positively and act accordingly, even if you're not feeling so, your life will be that much better.

Take advantage of the opportunities you have, and don't be afraid to try something out of fear of change or the unknown. If you feel like you need more motivation, or want to do something more with your life, then do something about it. In the end, the only thing that really determines how old you are is you...not some candles on a birthday cake.

For my day of birth, I decided to spend my time with some friends in Jeju city. I awoke with the feeling of excitement, anticipating a great day. The first thing on my agenda was to grab the bus to the city and rendezvous with my friend Naomi.

On the bus to the city I noticed the now char-covered oreum that was the remnants of the fire festival. I suppose in the old days, many farmers would now have similar looking fields, ready for a new year of cultivation.



After getting some directions, I eventually arrived at Naomi's place and we went out for some lunch. She recommended one of her favourite spots: Room and Kitchen. Its this cozy little place, with several floors of seating, all designed to a different theme. Apparently the owner is attempting to a launch her career into interior design, and this was her model.



We were given plenty of pillows for seating and even some blankets, which a lot of places do instead of properly heating their places. Koreans for some reason are very adamant about not turning on any heat, unless absolutely necessary, and then when they do, its usually some gas fueled personal heater that seems like an accident waiting to happen.

The meal however, was definitely worth the few minutes of cold. I ordered a traditional style breakfast, sausages with eggs, some toast, and a side of fruit; it was very refreshing. Naomi got the casadias, which were just fantastic as well. If you're in Jeju-si and in need of a good breakfast, its a great spot to go.

As we left the restaurant, we turned the corner to go into a cafe for a cup of coffee, but ended up getting strawberry smoothies instead. Probably the tastier choice. We decided to get some fresh air and exercise by going for a walk towards the harbour.

Along our journey, we came upon a very interesting looking wall. There were dozens of tiles glued to it, each with its own personal design.



Continuing on our way, we made a slight detour to check out the market; it was busy as always. Still, its interesting to take a look at what crazy looking sea creature is on sale for the day.

Exiting the market we came upon a quaint little parkway, that led down towards the waterfront. Walking towards it, we discovered an interesting canal and stone bridge. From the English translated sign, I gathered that it was some bridge of significance and was built an incredibly long time ago.



Not far down the pathway I found yet again some more random workout spots. They had an elliptical, something that worked your waist, and this crazy looking steering wheel, which I have no idea how to work. Naomi and I tried the various mechanisms and felt like we had got our exercise for the day.



There was a nice spot to sit down nearby the water, so we climbed down the steps and took a few moments enjoying the scenery. I discovered something which looked like a Dol hareubang perched upon on rock in the canal, but later discovered that it must be something else, as it did not resemble any other previous ones I've seen; perhaps its was one of the original 45 that are on the island.



Further down stream we discovered some fish swimming in the canal, and this really interesting looking bird, which Naomi believed to be some type of heron. After a few more minutes walking around the canal, it was time to get going and meet up with the rest of the gang.

We met Brian at his new apartment in Jeju-si, and then went off to Bagdad cafe for some dinner. There were about ten of us and it made for a great time. I ordered the lamb curry with garlic nan and some sort of potato broccoli combination with tomato basil sauce. Yum!

Jim and the others surprised me with a cake, which we took to the bar afterwards and I attempted to make everyone finish eating it; probably the result of too many drinks by that time. We exchanged some embarrassing stories over dinner and wine, and then all moved off to the nearby pub for some more drinks.



I don't really remember much else that happened that night, but I still managed to wake up in my own bed, so it couldn't have been too bad. I really enjoyed it and I hope everyone else did too. Thanks guys.

The new school year

The first day of March in Korea is the beginning of the new school year. For some students, it means the graduation from one school to the next. This entrance into a new school is also a time when parents come out with their children for the orientation process. For Hagwons, it is a good time to try and sign up these parents and their children.

It was the second time I have gone out advertising with my school, and again it was at the same nearby elementary school. At first I was told we were going to meet at 7:30 this morning, which I did not look forward to, but was later relieved when informed that it was to be pushed back to 9:00, as the orientation didn't start until 10:00 am.

In much the similar manner, we showed up with boxes filled with bags, which were stuffed with coupons. This time however, there were some other people handing out free stuff as well. One of them was for a music school, another for a martial arts academy, which grabbed my interest, and of course, the representatives from our school: the teachers.

One of my co-workers taught me 쿠폰 있어요 (Kou-pohn-ee-ssawe-yoh), which roughly translates to: "coupons for you." Another teacher remarked that it sounded a little cheesy, and I agreed, so I stuck with the standard greeting: 안녕 하세요 (ahn-nyaweng-hah-say-yoh [hello]).

Just this morning my director brought up the news about the closure of a nearby competing Hagwon, which my friend Brian worked at until a recent incident concerning his director's husband. I'll not go into the details, but suffice to say that many of the students from that school have now left, and are looking for somewhere else to go. The alternative? My school; One Hagwon's loss is another Hagwon's gain.

The school's gain however, doesn't necessarily translate to my own. We have just hired on another Korean teacher, whom speaks English very well and with an Australian accent, to start teaching some more classes. It makes work easier for the other teachers, as they can now divide some of their classes with the new teacher; Where as I'm now looking at another few hours of class work each week. My schedule has been pretty easy the last two months, so maybe its just karma getting me back.

I saw a few of my elementary students at today's orientation, and was glad to greet them when I did. They were quite ecstatic upon seeing me and I was introduced to their parents. As all the children gathered in the courtyard for the opening ceremony, one of my co-workers discussed with a parent about our school.

The curious mother had asked why the price was more for our school than the same chain school in downtown Seogwipo. It turns out that the school in the city did not have a native speaker, and so their prices were cheaper than ours; Native speakers are indeed a commodity here, especially amongst Hagwons.